Flavor of Dashain
The festival of Dashain is a fiesta of flavors. The ethnic diversity of Nepal entails a symphony of beautiful delicacies put together to enjoy with friends and family. In this article we shall explore the various flavors that are celebrated during Dashain
‘Dal Bhaat Masu’, we love to eat during Dashain! A nearly seven-day holiday means playing cards and feasting on various delicacies. Every household engages in making an age-old food recipe with absolute joy. Since food has a way of bringing all of us together, let’s talk about staple food eaten during this festive season.
A tantalizing appetizer popular in a Newari household, Chhoila is a famous dish served with chiura (beaten ride). Commonly there are two types of Chhoila, Haku and Mana wherein mana means ‘boiled’ and Haku means ‘black’ referring to meat cooked over fire. It is made with buffalo meat, nowadays we make the dish with other types of meat as well.
In the same genre of unique eats, Sukuti is dried meat marinated with spices over charcoal or a fireplace. Sukuti Sadheko is a dish that is a mixture of cumin, coriander, garlic, ginger, red onions, and chilies. Largely served as a snack with noodles or chowmein, extra crunchy peanuts, and raw shelled green peas are also a good addition.
We all crave the savory taste of Sekuwa which is a Nepali way of cooking barbecue. An iconic food found especially in eastern Nepal and Kathmandu, it’s a true meat lover's dish. It could be a goat, lamb, pork, chicken, or even a mixture of it all. Now that sounds like fun!
Experience the delicate and rich flavor of Jhuku aka Blood Sausage. The diced, boiled and fried intestine consisting of white blood cells might not be the go-to choice. However, for people who love experimenting with their food, this dish is a must-try!
Enjoying a piece of grilled Mutton Sekuwa meat with a hint of lime, chili, and Sichuan pepper sure takes us down the road of nostalgia. Am I right? The cuts in the tender boneless meat give a smoky taste and add a bit of crispiness to each bite. Traditionally, we enjoy this treasured food with local Dashain drinks while playing cards.
As part of reminiscing exquisite recipes, consuming Mutton Curry among the Kshatriyas and Brahmins has its own significance. Some families buy a goat and keep it in the house for a few days. On the eighth day of Dashain, the goat is sacrificed and offered to God. Every part of the meat is enjoyed. Bhutan (fried intestine) is eaten with drinks while Mutton Kebab is devoured at all times.
Also, ever heard of pakku? A marinated dish with immense spices cooked in a low level of heat for a long time giving it the texture of pakku which is tender and flavorful. Due to culinary diversity, every household has its own cooking of this meaty treat. That’s why you get to try different variations of the classic goat pakku!
Talking about options that appeal to all vegetarians out there, Bhatmas Sadheko is the perfect appetizer eaten in the form of a snack or side dish. Also found in a Newari platter, people of all ages relish its well-seasoned taste. Another dominant cuisine is fermented radish pickle. Mula Ko Achar gives off a certain kick of spices making the experience really enjoyable. For all kimchi lovers, give this a try!
Once the holiday starts, there’s no work, no obligation and the only thing to think about is FOOD! Nowadays, we can even see people sharing their unique customs, traditions, and family recipes bringing in a lot more palatable options as part of a cultural amalgam.
Having said that, this Dashain you can create your own signature dish or stick to your grandma's curated recipes. Either way, it’s going to be a flavorful season!
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Places to visit this Dashain Break
As everyone gets a holiday during the Dashain season, it has become a trend to go on a short break. The ultimate escape from work and study calls for a rejuvenating adventure. So, call up your loved ones and arrange a package service to head on out and about
The first place that comes to mind when we talk about inbound travel is going to Nagarkot. A hill station famously known for camping and night stay purpose gives you the best sunrise and sunset view. If the weather is in your favor, you get to witness the glorious sight of the mountains in just an hour’s drive.
Talking about a journey that takes about 5 hours of time, a short stay at Kalinchowk is a wonderful choice. After getting on a cable car, a picturesque view awaits you on top of the Bhagwati temple that will leave you in awe. We recommend renting a private vehicle or hiring a jeep as it’s convenient.
Without mentioning Pokhara, this article would be incomplete as it’s a major internal and external tourist hub. Surrounded by Fewa, Begnash lake, and Sarankot for early morning sunrise, the city has it all. Along with that, David Fall, Peace Pagoda, International Mountain Museum, and Mahendra Cave are other major attractions.
If there’s one place that preaches peace and tranquility, it’s Bandipur. An old Newari town located in the heart of Tanahu district is worth traveling for a day or even overnight for an authentic experience. The housing style here is quite the sight. As part of a hill station, you get a scenic view of a wide range of mountains. Just take a stroll around the evening time with your friend and see how wonderful it feels!
For people who aren’t celebrating Dashain this year, we’ve got you sorted with a perfect escape plan to wander in nature. A superb monsoon cloud-free weather greets you no matter which path you follow. Take your family for a visit to either see the unhindered 180-degree scene of the snow-capped mountains or a picnic around the vibrant Godavari area.
We all want to attain peace during our break right? So why not visit the birthplace of The Light of Asia in Lumbini? Remember to go to Maya Devi Temple, Ashok Pillar, Shanti Stupa, and Bidhi Tree while you’re at it. In a place with rich flora and fauna, take a trip to Chitwan National Park and be a part of nature. Hop on a safari ride and there’s a chance of spotting Bengal Tiger, Rhino, Crocodile, Elephant, and many more diverse creatures. Also, the world’s littlest vertebrate, the dwarf shrew is here, isn’t that exciting?
Only with an hour’s drive, embark upon the luscious green forest of Chitlang village. Consisting of more than 160 species of animals and birds, it’s a real treat for the eyes where you get to soak in every element of nature. Did you know about a big apple garden with more than a thousand apple trees? Well, you have to take a look at it! They have even established a few cottages between the gardens.
Although visiting a heritage site might not be on your bucket list, there will be less traffic and crowd to go to sites like Kathmandu Durbar Square, Swayambhunath, Kritipur, Bhaktapur, and Bouddha. You will get a whole new outlook on familiar places. Who knows, you may even find some hidden gems.
The month of September and October are considered to be the finest time to explore the nooks and corners of Nepal. So, where will you visit this Dashain?
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Symbolism of Dashain
Dashain- a grand celebration of victory over evil. The festival at its core is similar to Dashera celebrated in India but over time numerous elements have been through cultural practise. It is a festival with deep symbolism and roots in all of our cultures
Upon hearing Dashain people envision a long holiday where people rejoice in flying kites, wearing new clothes, eating good food, and exchanging kind greetings with loved ones. The most powerful symbolic message is the celebration of the victory of truth and virtue against injustice. This auspicious festival starts with Ghatasthapana where people fill a vessel to the brim with sand. Then they sow barley seeds and maize while covering it in a pitch black room and worshipping it for 10 days.
Similarly, on the seventh day, Phulpati is observed in the form of Saptami and is commemorated by an official ceremony held in Dhulikhel. After that, the Fulpati parade is taken to the residence of the president of Nepal as he’s a leader of the country. Followed by the eighth day, Maha Asthami is devoted to the name of Goddess Kali, who is a manifestation of Goddess Durga. To appease the fiery rage of Kali, people tend to sacrifice hens, goats, and buffaloes in temples. Now comes the ninth day of Dashain Mahanavami where we remember Lord Vishwakarma who is famously known as the divine creator of the world. People spent their day worshiping their tools, equipment, and vehicles. Another value of this important day is the opening of Taleju Temple. Its gates are open to the public only on Mahanavami.
Commonly, it’s considered to be a nine-day festival and is called Nauratha or Navaratri. During this time, we dedicate our time to worshipping many avatars of Goddess Durga like Brahmacharini, Shailputri, Kushmanda, Chandraghanta, Katyayani, Skandamata, Siddhidatri, and Mahagauri. On the tenth day, to mark the end of the ritual, people distribute Prasad as sweets and Jamara. Not to forget the most exciting part for children, elders bless them with Dakshina (money). It symbolizes blessings passed down from one generation to another. To give the exact timeline, the tradition of receiving Tika and Prasad starts from Ashwin Shukladashami and ends on Ashwin Shuklapoornim.
The fifteenth day is the last of this festival and falls on a full moon day. Preserving the historical ethos of the vibrant festival, it concludes after staying awake for the whole night and following various proceedings in the name of Mahalaxmi. This night is popularly called Kojagrat Purnima. The actual meaning of Kojagrata is someone ‘who is awake.’ There’s a common belief that Goddess Lakshmi visits earth and she keeps tabs on people who stayed awake to worship her. She brings prosperity and luck to people who prove their unyielding commitment.
However, there are some superstitious elements at play during this season as well. Animal sacrifices are done in the name of the weapon, Maulo, and Kotpuja. Although this practice has been notably reduced, they are still apparent in some typical Nepalese neighborhood. Our values should lie in the fact that saving the lives of harmless creatures should be done even if the tradition says otherwise.
Overall, the Dashain festival represents Nepal as being rich in cultural diversity. The Malshree dhun is integrated as a piece of mainstream Nepalese music and represents the tune of Dashain. Since the start of Nauratha, the pleasant melodies of Mohalibaja, Fluit, Dhime, and Jhyamtebaja denotes the arrival of our most awaited festival.
Also, the appealing weather with warm and lovely sunrays in the daytime and foggy mornings make the festival even more joyous. It falls under the perfect time, the ending of the rainy season, and the beginning of the winter season.
The elements of bonding and family reunion make Dashain a valuable and memorable time for all. Other key aspect includes bonding, elder’s blessings, family reunion, and entertainment making it a heartwarming time spent with loved ones.
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Sikali: A Unique Take on Dashain
While most of us rejoice for nine days in the most auspicious festivity of Dashain, people of the Newa community partake in a unique cultural blend in a historic town. For ages, the post-harvest celebration has had its own significance and this Newar festival for the people of Khokana is parallel to the ideologies of Dashain, ‘Victory of good over evil.’
Historically speaking, the festival is dedicated to the name of the goddess Sikali, more commonly known as Rudrayani and Ajima. Famously known for carrying the reputation of a healer in society, Sikali are guardians committed to being the protector of children. During the seven days long festivals starting from Ghatasthapana, Goddess Rudrayani is carried in a wooden chariot for a stroll throughout the village. She then rests in front of the Sikali temple where she belongs surrounded by religious copper vessels.
On the day of Fulpati, they commemorate the occasion with a special cultural dance in the heart of Khokana. In the Malla era of the 15th century under the ruling of the King, Amar Malla made various temples under the name Matrika’s (Mother Goddesses). Amongst them, Rudrayani, commonly known as Maheshwari became a well-renowned deity. A special temple was made in her name and the town of Khokana dedicated its life to her service. For that matter, the King selected Dangols and Maharjans and relocated them to Pachali Bhairav for maintaining and catering service. While establishing the foundation of the Kingdom, the city was famously known as Jitapur.
So, in today’s era, how is tradition conducted? Well, it is conducted by the prestigious priests with decorative ornaments and plain white robes. About 14 masked goddesses come together to perform a graceful dance with each other. Locals have strong faith that their devotion to protecting them and their town from grave calamities and misfortunes. Previously, the deeds performed in the festivity were also known to reduce the high child mortality rate in Nepal. It was a common myth before modern medicines and vaccines came into existence.
Talking about the origin of the word Khokana, it is a Newari word Khokana where “Kho” means to weep and “Kana” means to tell. Legend says that in this land a respected Maharjan priest of Pachali Bhairav residing in Kathmandu lost consciousness because of a high cold fever. The village Vaidya, in a state of shock and confusion, thought he was dead and was taken to the bankside of Bagmati for cremation. His wife joined beside him in the pyre following the historical Hindu practice of Sati Pratha.
A heavy downpour then resulted in everyone leaving the cremation and running towards the shelter. But surprisingly, as the pyre started burning, the priest gained consciousness. Thinking of this as a bad omen, the people of the locality didn’t allow both of them to enter the city again.
With nowhere else to go, they decided to make their living in Kudesh, ‘Ku’ meaning Bad and ‘Desh’ meaning country. There’s a hearsay that claims Goddess Sikali Devi blessed the couple and they started a new settlement on the northwest side of Khokana, the rest is history.
During the final day, a distinct performance is held by the elders of the community. Presented in an archaic form of storytelling, it involves traditional music with people in godly dress up and a mask of famous gods and notorious demons. This represents a great diversity of people coming together as one. A huge commotion is created by individuals to witness the auspicious occasion of Sikali being taken to the temple. The spectacles take blessing from her for health and prosperity. Even tourists from far and long come to get a glimpse of this holy entity.
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Yenya Punhi: A Jubilation of Kathmandu - Part II
According to legends, it is believed that the mother of Lord Intra required a Parijat( a white flower) to perform a ritual. For which Lord Indra descended to earth in search of the flower. He disguised himself as a commoner and while trying to take the flower out of the lawn of a Jyapu. He caught Lord Indra and held him captive blaming him of trying to steal. Lord Indra was imprisoned and not allowed to go back to heaven.
Regarded as the biggest festival of the then Kingdom of Nepal Valley, the true origin of the festivals are still debated. But this festival is believed to be founded during the Licchavi Era by King Gunakamadeva, the founder of the city of Kantipur (Kathamandu). The celebration of Indra Jatra is made of three different series of rituals: Kumari Jatra, Indra Jatra and Bhairava Jatra. Each have their own legends and ceremonial components but as a whole, turn the centre of Basantapur Durbar Square into a grand affair. The square is a sight to behold from the break of dawn till midnight, as the chariots of Kumari, Ganesh and Bhairava make there way through the inner city of Kathmandu. Every street comes to life with masked dances, merry music during the eight days of festivities.
According to legends, it is believed that the mother of Lord Intra required a Parijat( a white flower) to perform a ritual. For which Lord Indra descended to earth in search of the flower. He disguised himself as a commoner and while trying to take the flower out of the lawn of a Jyapu. He caught Lord Indra and held him captive blaming him of trying to steal. Lord Indra was imprisoned and not allowed to go back to heaven.
The mother of Indra grew worry some as her son hadn’t returned from Earth. Phul Khusi ( The Vahan of Indra) descended upon Earth to find his master and wondered around the streets of Kathmandu. During when a great festival was occuring in the Kathmandu and after hours of searching, Phul Khusi found Lord Indra. Phul Khusi took the news to heaven after which, his mother descended from heaven to free her son. She requested the villagers to release her son, but didn’t heed to her words. Only after Lord Indra reveled his true form. The mother of Indra made a promise to the villagers to give in return a final rainfall for their harvest to prosper and she would lead them to the gateway to heaven.
Accepting the conditions the villagers freed Lord Indra and let him go with his mother, a group of villagers followed them to the outskirts of Kathmandu to find the doorway to heaven. But Lord Indra’s mother tricked the villagers by putting forth a large mist which left the villagers confused and in dismay as Lord Indra and his mother went to heaven. To commemorate this event, during the celebration of Indra, a Dagi ( Procession) takes the same path every single year. “The circumbulation of the city is performed in order to reach heaven in the Dagi’s footsteps to meet the dead relatives. The families scatter grain by the wayside so that they would not forget the way home. One finished, they throw what remains of there offerings in a plce called Bhuta Satta, near Kasthamandap, and wash their faces at Maru Hiti fountain. Afterwards, they either return home or go to bathe in Indra’s Pond ( Yamki Da), which is located on a hill 12 kilometers west of Kathmandu.” Toffin,1992,86)
The festival of Indra Jatra is a feast to all senses, the air is scented with the smell of incense, and the sound of drums and traditional instruments tranquil once ears. For the eyes, one can behold the procession of Living Goddess Kumari along with Lord Ganesh and Lord Bhairav. The chariot is pulled for three consecutive days. The first day is known as Kwaneya during when the chariot makes its way from Basantapur, Maru, Chikanmugal, Jasidewal, Lagan, Bhimsensthan, Baru and ends at Basantapur. The second day is known as Yenya Punhi on which the chariot procession begins from Basantapur to Pyaphal, Nyata, Tengal, Nhyaokha, Nhaikan Tol, Asan, Kel Tol, Indra Chowk, Makhan and ends at Basantapur. The final day of the procession is known as Nanichaya, the chariot is pulled by revellers from Basantapur tp Pyaphal, Yatkha, Nyata, Kilagal, Bhedsing, Indra Chowk, Makhan and ends at Basantapur.
During the festival of Indra, various idols and masks of goddess are taken out of their normal abode to be exhibited to the people. The most prominent of which are the Sweta Bhairab mask and the idol of Akash Bahiran. Similarly an image of Indra is displayed at Maru and Indra Chowk. Various forms of dances such as of Lakhe Aju, Mahakali Naach, Halchowk Bairab, Phul Kushi, Devi Kyakhan are performed on specific days and nights of the festival.
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Yenya Punhi: A Jubilation of Kathmandu - Part I
Amongst the great celebrations of this valley, nothing beats the pomp and flair of Yenya Punhi. Commonly known as Indra Jatra- a name derived from the lore of Indra- the heaven king's visit to Nepal. This festival is larger than life, with symbolism and meaning going back thousands of years- neatly preserved by the Newars.
The jubilation of Kathmandu is a combination of festivals. It features the veneration of multiple deities. The Newar name Yenya denotes "Celebration (ya) of Kantipur/ Kathmandu (yen)". The township during the Lichhavi era was called Yen. Its sister cities were respectively called Yala (Lalitpur), Kwopa (Bhatgaon/Bhaktapur) and Kipu (Kirtipur).
The origins of the festivities are very vague. However, the careful analysis presents a similarity to ancient paganistic rituals of Europe. The day of Yenya Punhi aligns with the change of season in this valley. The season transfers from Barsha (Monsoon) to Sarad (Autumn). Reviewing the procedures of various festivals in the valley: evidence is drawn to how the Yasi/ Yosi (Ceremonial Pole) is hoisted to alert the citizens of change. The same was observed in medieval Europe. The ceremonial May Day pole symbolized the advent of spring. A stark similarity to Bhaktapur's Yoshi was erected during Bisakh Jatra to celebrate the end of winter and the beginning of spring.
After the Earth, the festival features associations with the guardian deity of Nepal Kingdom- Bhairava. The association was made during the Licchavi Era. A legend goes as follows:
As instructed, the King merged the existing villages of Koligram (Yambhu) and Dakshin Koligram (Yengal). He defeated rulers of various petty states and created his new city. He also established a beautiful stone spout gilded in gold, Lu Hiti (Gold- dhara/ Sundhara). It featured an intricate water-management system, and royal canals (Rajkulos) channelled river water to the spout. He named the city Suvarna Pranali Kantipur. Here, Suvarna means golden, Pranali means system. Kantipur is a mixture of two words - Kanti, meaning beautiful and pur, which means place.
To celebrate the momentous occasion, he initiated a festival known as Yenya. The word is a mixture of Yen- the Newari name of the city and Ya- celebration. It is also called the celebration inside the town.
It is possible King Gunakamadeva’s celebration overlapped the change of seasons, and the two elements became one.
The inception of Indra in the festival is a great mystery. Indra is a god from the Vedic era. He had deep roots in the classical Indian pantheon, but his worship slowly began to fade. Some believe that due to his nature his worship began to fade. Anthropologist G.S Nepali writes, "The festival of Indra Jatra suggests perhaps the memory of a conflict between the two tribes- the followers of Indra and their opponents. The festival is perhaps an Indo-Aryan feature which survives in Nepal, but is totally forgotten in India."
The goddess of Indraghat arrived in the Nepal Kingdom during the rule of King Dharmadatta. The goddess is referred to as Indrayani, locally known as Manamaiju. The hill where she settled in this valley is referred to as Manamaiju. It could be that after her arrival, the worship of her husband Indra also began.
The third fold of this festival is the female guardian of the Nepal Kingdom- Kumari. A Kumari is a living goddess embodying the energy of the divine feminine. She is worshipped as Taleju Bhawani, Durga or Parvati. During the Malla Era, King Jaya Prakash Malla had an unfortunate encounter. He lost the trust of his tutelary deity Tulaju Devi (today known as Taleju). After multiple requests, she came to his dreams and directed him to begin worshipping a virgin girl of the Bandra (Buddhist Newar) community as her manifestation.
To read the full version of the incident click here
These elements combined have created an atmosphere of great jubilation. The core activities related to these deities are accompanied by various magical creatures and the presentation of beautiful dances and plays.
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10 Essential Things To Do In Kathmandu Valley - Part II
The valley- is an astonishing amalgam of religions, culture and heritage. It isn’t just the political centre point of our nation but also the melting pot where you can discover the country through one beautiful melting pot.
In the previous article, we mentioned visiting the Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum and hunting down UNESCO World Heritage sites of the valley. In this part, we shall explore more activities.
3. Visit Chandragiri
Chandragiri is a popular hill station in Kathmandu Valley. Before the gondola transportation system, this region was under the radar. This point is a great vantage to see the valley basin. It also has historical significance.
The hills are 16 km from central Kathmandu. A drive or ride would face South-West. It is situated at an altitude of 2551 metres, making it the second highest hill point in the valley after Shivapuri at 2732m. The last two hills are Pulchhowki at 2695m and Nagarjun at 2095m.
If a gondola isn’t your cup of tea, you can hike, drive or ride to reach the top. The trip would be nothing short of an adventure as the terrain is uneven and rocky.
From the highest point in Chandragiri, depending upon the season, you can see numerous peaks of the Himalayan Range. During perfect weather, you can even see Mount Everest.
4. Indulge in the local cuisine
A diverse cultural scene equals culinary diversity. The melting pot of Kathmandu Valley has establishments that serve numerous ethnic cuisines. Even though it might seem like fast food and Newari cuisine dominate the landscape, it is not true. With a bit of research, you can create a beautiful culinary exploration map to try mouth-watering delicacies.
Two regional cuisines are dominant- Thakali & Newari. Thakali flavours are from Western Nepal, and their staple dish is a divine Thali.
The second cuisine is of the indigenous inhabits of the Kathmandu Valley- The Newars! Their stride in the crafts can be seen in the iconic squares, whereas their exceptional choice of taste is visible in their assortment of dishes.
The Newar cuisine represents the migratory roots of the Newar people. Multiple ingredients were brought to this valley by merchant families during their trade adventure. Some dishes are similar to out neighbour nations. However the Newar touch makes the version available in the valley unique.
Other ethnic groups as Rai, Tamang, Sherpa have their eateries set up in this valley. They stride to serve you an authentic taste using native ingredients and spices.
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10 Essential Activities In Kathmandu Valley - Part I
The valley of Kathmandu at times feels like a chaotic amalgam of traditional and modern culture. This transitional era of Nepal has given birth to numerous activities in the Kathmandu Valley both traditional and modern
The Valley of Kathmandu is home to numerous cities. The most popular are Kathmandu (Capital of Nepal), Lalitpur, Bhaktapur & Kirtipur. These three, along with their confederate states, were considered the Kingdom of Nepal (Nepal Mandala) before the formation of the modern kingdom of Nepal by King Prithvi Narayan Shah.
In 1769 AD, after the successful assault on Bhaktapur where he had cornered all the (King Jaya Prakash Malla of Kathmandu, King Tej Narsigha Malla of Patan & King Ranjit Malla of Bhaktapur) claimed victory over the valley.
King Shah made the valley a focal point of his expansion campaign due to the power and treasures accumulated by the Malla kings. Once conquered, the Malla controlled checkpoints, and their treasures and strategic forts now belonged to King Shah.
1. Visit The Hanuman Dhoka Palace Museum
The history mentioned above is just a teaser of the rich political past of Nepal. King Shah, after 1769, moved to the former royal palace of the Mallas. This valley later became the centre of his political and military advance. He and his descendants walked the halls of this palace museum, once a glorious palace home.
This palace museum hosts well-preserved artefacts, relics and reliefs of the bygone era of Nepal. This place is the perfect place to start your deep dive into rich cultural, political and military history.
2. UNESCO Heritage Site Hunt
The valley of Kathmandu is home to 7 of the 10 listed UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Nepal. The list goes as follows:
These sites are in close proximity to each other. You can explore them with ease. During your visit to these iconic sites, absorb as much of the place as possible.
The furthest location on this list is the magnificent temple of Changu Narayan. Historians believe that this temple is the oldest in Nepal. Some sources are that it was built during the 2nd century during the Lichhavi rule. However, the local experts state that the temple is much older.
In the upcoming blog, we shall explore more essential activities for Kathmandu Valley.
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Trekking Annapurna
The Annapurna region of Nepal is a surreal gem of Nepal. This region is home to ample natural beauty, flora and fauna. This region today features the most traversed trails in our nation.
Annapurna- the giver of food and nourishment! The region named after the snowy peaks of Annapurna stands true to its name. Since time immemorial, these mountains have been the source of the elixir of life- water! The stream and rivers that flow from these mountains helped shape its unique lifestyle and beauty. Even today, these mountains and their ecosystem provide bread and nourishment to numerous families all over Nepal. The world comes to witness this natural yonder and traverse its beaten trails.
The gateway to this immaculate wonder is the peaceful lake town of Pokhara. This picturesque valley is a bustling tourist hub featuring ample amenities set up to cater for the flock of adventurers and trekkers who descend upon this valley all-around the year, especially during spring and autumn, to escape in the tranquil lap of nature.
Every day and every mile in this region is a new adventure here. The diversity of ecosystems and terrain is out of this world. The Annapurna Conservation Area begins at 790 m above sea level and reaches 8,091 m at the summit of Mount Annapurna I, the 10th tallest peak in the world.
Enchanted forests, magical high passes and breathtaking scenes await a traveller in this region. Some of the most popular treks in the region are as follows:
Poonhill Trek
Basic Itinerary Days: 4-5
Route: KTM-PKR (Flight)-Naya Pul (Drive)- Tikhe Dhunga- Ghorepani- Tadapani- Poonhill (morning hike)- Ghandruk- Naya Pul- Pokhara (Drive)- Kathmandu (Flight)
Trek Style: Tea House
Max Elevation: 3210m
Attractions: Poonhill view point, sunrise view, culture and lifestyle of gurung people, panoramic mountain views
Ghodepani is synonymous with Poonhill, the magnicent mountain viewing station literally takes ones breath away with surreal views of the Annapurna Range and Dhaulagiri Range. A strenuous trek of 5 days bears the fruits of beautiful opportunity to experience the himalayan lifestyle and indulge in the beauty of the Himalayas.
The Ghodepani Circuit is part of the larger Annapurna Circuit which starts from Besiahar Lamjung and ends in the pareses known as Pokhara. The 21-26 day tour is a stretch that most cannot endure thus the Ghodepani Circuit though challenging is short enough for most to conquer and experience the Himalayas.
Lower Mustang Trek
Basic Itinerary Days: 9 Days
Route: KTM- PKR- Jomsom ( Flight) - Kagbeni (Trek) - Jharkot (Trek) - Muktinath (Trek) - Lupra (Trek) - Jomsom - PKR (Flight)
Trek Style: Tea House
Max Elevation: 3795 M
Attractions: Red Gompa, Apple Orchids, Muktinath Temple, Panoramic Peaks View, Thak Kola, Bonpo Monastery, Sayka Gompa
Best Season: May- Nov
The barren landscape of Lower Mustang at times can feel like an otherworldly experience. With its rustic atmosphere, barren hills and tantalizing view of the Himalayas, it also offers the travellers an opportunity to experience the traditional lifestyle of the Thakali people who have called this region home for thousands of years. A far and easy trail which departs from Jomsom, with moderate altitude climbs and features a fair trial for all to enjoy.
Royal Trek
Basic Itinerary Days: 5 Days
Route: KTM- PKR (Flight/Bus)- Bijayapur (Drive)- Kalikasthan (Trek)- Syaklung(Trek) - Chisapani(Trek)- Sundare Danda ( Trek) - Pokhara (Drive)
Permit: Basic Permit (T.I.M.S)
Cost: USD $25
Trek Style: Tea House
Max Elevation: 1730M
Attractions: Lakes such as Rupa, Begnas and Fewa, Rhododendron Forests, Panoramic Peaks View with mountains such as Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Machhapuchhre, Annapurna and it’s sisters.
Best Season: September - December and March to May
The trail gets its name after Prince Charles and his entourage explored Annapurna region through this path in the early eighties. One of the most popular short trails in Annapurna Conservation Area, the basic itinerary of 5 days is great for adventurers who don’t have much time but still wish to explore the region. Located in the North-Western side of Pokhara, the trails of Royal Trek allows you to experience the majestic mountains of Machapuchre, Manaslu, Annapurna, Lamjung Himal and Dhaulagiri and others. It also provides you with an opportunity to witness the life of the ethnic communities of Gurungs and Magars.
The trek passes through beautiful Gurung hamlets, where one can indulge in the traditional lifestyle, culture, and traditions of the Gurung people which they have preserved and maintained even till this day.
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Mohni- A Cultural Experience
For an outsider to truly experience Mohni, s/he has to be invited by a Newar to their home. Over the years, due to its close celebratory proximity to Dashera, the grand festival of India, it was also considered Dashain- the Nepali rendition of Dashera. But, in reality, Mohni features a few similar elements brought by migrants from the south. Apart from this, the customs and traditions are completely different.
The core celebrations are private. But the Newars, over the years, found a way to liven the public atmosphere as well. Thus, various smaller events take place during the core two-week festival. As these cultural traditions take place in public spaces, one can absorb the cultural experiences easily.
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Mentioned below are a few of these events. They amplify the celebrations of Mohni via the presentation of numerous dances, skits and others.
Sikali Jatra
On the southern end of the city of Lalitpur lies the picturesque village of Khokana. Historic in nature, stepping foot inside the settlement is equal to walking back in time. The old mud-brick houses and ancient heritage mingle with the new concrete construction.
A unique aspect of this village is how the inhabitants do not celebrate the main festival of Dashain. They, however, rejoice in a celebration known as Sikali Jatra. It begins on the day of Ghatasthapana and ends on the day of Fulpati.
During this period, the inhabitants perform ancient rituals. Amongst these are the Sikali Naach and the skit of Khokhana. Elders adorn the masks of various deities and re-create a play depicting old tales. Whereas in the premises of the Sikali temple, an arcane ritual takes place.
Asta Matrika Dance
Traditionally known as Ga Pyakhan, this ensemble features 13 masked dancers who embody the principal mother deities of the city and chief gods. In Nepal Bhasa (Newari), Ga means group and Pyakhan- dance, whereas Asta Matrika Dance in Nepali.
This dance originated in the 17th century. As per chronicles, the king saw the deities dance towards his palace and enter the courtyard. The king rushed to take their blessings, but as he entered the court, they vanished. To commemorate this auspicious event, he initiated this dance.
This performance is annual and begins on Ghatasthapana- the first day of Mohni. The dancers follow strict discipline for eleven days. Primarily the presentation takes place in the evening, but on the seventh and tenth day, the show takes place during the day at Mul Chowk of Patan Durbar.
Pachali Bhairab Jatra
Towards the southern end of Kathmandu lies an open-air temple with a peculiar deity. The worship of Pachali Bhairab, as per numerous chronicles, began in the 10th century, during the rule of king Gunakamadev. The festival of Pachali Bhairab takes place on the fifth day of Mohni. Devotees flock to the temple to seek his blessing and to witness the chariot festival. The deity is carried on a palanquin by community members and take a designed route on the old city roads. At Hanuman Dhoka, the idol rests, and special puja is conducted. Post which, the procession heads towards Kumari Chhen (House), where the living goddess locks eyes with the bronze idol. Until she instructs that she is satisfied, the ritual doesn’t stop. After her instructions, the procession completes the circuit, and the statue rests inside the temple premises.
Khadga Jatra
On the morning of the tenth day, three scared swords are brought to Patan Durbar Square from the temple of Mahalaxmi in Lagankhel. Young boys tease the sword-bearer, and a deadly chase ensues. It is a spectacle that attracts a handsome crowd. Once they reach the palace cortex, the sword-bearers are welcomed with a special ceremony. The swords are then placed inside the temple and taken out in the evening.
Thecho Navadurga
The ensemble from Thecho, a semi-urban village south of Lalitpur, visits Patan Durbar Square on the evening of the tenth day. It features masked dancers who embody mother goddesses and other chief gods. They perform a sacred dance in the palace courtyard and indulge in a feast as well.
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Gai Jatra A Day of Remembrance
Annually on the day of Bhadra Krishna Pratiprada, the valley of Kathmandu wakes to celebrate a festival like no other. Known as Sa Paru in Newari, and Gai Jatra in the Nepali, during the day individuals choose to commemorate the members of their family who have recently departed.
The thing that makes this festival so unique, is the way of commemoration, it isn’t done shedding tears but by spreading laughter and love. The festival is observed for a total of eight days, but the grand festivities occur on the first day. Celebrated only inside the Kathmandu Valley, by the natives of the Newar Community each city of the then Kingdom of Nepal celebrates the day in their unique manner.
According to legends, it is believed that King Pratap Malla of the Malla Dynasty instituted the Gai Jatra after the death of his son. His wife had been stricken with grief and all remedies of had thus failed. King Pratap Malla couldn’t bare the condition of his beloved wife and thus instituted a long procession, to bring forth to the Queen that it wasn’t only she who had lost a dear member of the family. Seeing the procession eased her sorrows, but it didn’t get the job done. Thus he announced a reward would be granted to anyone who would be able to put a smile on the queens face. It is also believed that, he granted full freedom of speech during the festival. The citizens accepted the challenge and came forth with various jokes and ridiculous apparel. Seeing which, the Queen finally broke a smile and laughed.
After which the celebration of Gai Jatra took a new leaf in the valley, where it became not just a way to commemorate the departed but also a way to spread joy and happiness to the once who did. Anil Chitrakar in his article for ECS Nepal states another legend related to the beginning of Gai Jatra, “As the Buddha was going around teaching the Dharma, a woman by the name of Krisha Gautami approached him crying and carrying a dead child. She demanded that if he was as great as people had told her he was, the Buddha should bring her child back to life. It is said that the Buddha calmly asked the woman to get some mustard seeds from a home where there had been no deaths so that he could sprinkle them on the child and bring him back to life. The woman agreed and began her quest to get the seeds from a home where no one had died. House after house she had to listen to sad tales of death in each family. As the day wore on, the woman realized the futility of her effort. The process of healing had begun.”
It is believed that Gai Jatra is a tribute to the departed soul. In Hinduism and Hindu mythology the cow is believed to a holy animal which would lead wondering spirits of the departed soul towards heaven. The departed are believed to hold the tail of the cow while they make their journey across the Vaitanrni River( The river between Earth and Naraka, the realm of Yama the god of death) without facing any hurdles.
The festival of Gai Jatra has multiple forms of observance in each city of the then Kingdom of Nepal Valley. In the city of Kantipur (Kathmandu), the procession makes its way thorough the old routes of the city and to the Durbar Square. Revellers of all forms can be seen, but the pack is normally lead by children dressed what we call, “ Gai Jatra” attire. In Patan, the day of Gai Jatra has very less participants as Patan( Lalitpur) celebrates Mataya. Mataya and Gai Jatra bare similarities, both long processions and mostly observed by individuals who have lost a member of their family in the recent year.
If one truly chooses to see the grand festival of Gai Jatra, then one must head to Bhaktapur. The entire Durbar Square area, lights up in a grand celebration with chariots known as Taha-Machas, which indicate the departed are taken around the city. The most unique paradeis known as Ghinta Ghisi which has two rows of individuals each with two small sticks hitting each others stick. It bares similarities with the Indian dance of Dandiya.
The festival of Gai Jatra holds a special communal importance in the Newar communities. The communities come together to organize, songs and music for the procession. The festival brings together members of the community where they can share condolences and also provide encouragements to the family members of the departed. It also helps make aware the younger generation, the cycle of life and how everyone has to die and it is a part of life. But that doesn’t mean that one has to always stay in mourning, and sorrow and the activities of the festival help bring love, laughter and joy into their lives.
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An Adventure in Ghale Gaun and Bhujung Gaun - Part III
The villages of Ghale Gaun & Bhujung Gaun are two great examples of life in the Annapurna region. The beauty of the panoramic vista along with the smiles of the humble people are enough to create memories that last a lifetime.
Day 4: Sightseeing day at Ghale Gaun
The fourth day is dedicated to exploring all the elements of the village. We recommend waking up early to witness the sunrise from the viewpoint. It is 10 minutes from the main town. You can take great photographs of the Himalayas and the village from this site.
After breakfast, you shall head towards Ghale Gaun Museum. It displays various tools, artefacts and clothes of the local community. You can borrow the traditional attire to take a few pictures for yourself. After the museum tour, you can visit the local religious sites such as the Uttarkanya temple and the local monastery. Further, you can take a small break at the tea garden.
There is a beautiful lake in the area named Talangyo lake. It is a popular site for bird watching. In the afternoon, make sure to witness the sunset.
The village community shall organise a cultural dance and music program before dinner.
Day 5: Ghale Gaun- Khudi - Besisahar - Kathmandu
After a good breakfast in the early morning, we embark on Khudi. The hike averages 4 hours. Once at Khudi, you shall get on board a vehicle that shall take you to Besisahar. A bus shall be waiting for you that shall take you to Kathmandu.
Once you reach Kathmandu, you can further explore this beautiful city. Out hotel features multiple tour packages. It includes an experienced travel guide along with a private shuttle. You can enquire about our offerings at the travel desk located in our hotel lobby. If you choose to explore the valley on your own, you should remember a few things.
Things to remember while exploring Kathmandu
1. Make sure to stay away from street hawkers: As Kathmandu Valley is a tourist destination, the streets of the major sites and monuments are filled with street hawkers. They shall approach you to sell a variety of local and imported goods. We advise you to polity decline any offerings provided by them. If you feel like you are being harassed by them, you can call the hotel or dial 1144 to contact the tourist police.
2. If you travel via public transportation, please be cautious of your surroundings and belongings. A safer option would be to hail a cab or use ride-sharing applications such as Pathao and Tootle. The fare charged is nominal and less than a cab. These rides are safer than public transportation.
3. Always check restaurant reviews for a better dining experience.
4. Make sure to wear a mask and proper covering to avoid air pollution.
5. Try and learn a few phrases in the local language. This makes travelling more convenient.