Resilience and Heart
Ever since Nepal opened its doors to the outside world in 1950AD, tourism grew as an avenue of income for various communities of Nepal. The pandemic derailed the nations ambitious plan of welcoming the world in 2020 AD. It became a year of survival and resilience for the Nepalese people. The people saw 2022 as the year they could slowly recover the mountain of debt lost, but with a fresh new wave, things were darker and gloomier than ever.
Tourism over the years became the backbone of this humble nation. Nepal is a land blessed with natural yonder and great adventure potential.
It slowly became a prime destination for travel bugs. During this process, communities all over Nepal flourished as their area saw foot traffic. The pandemic stunned Nepal’s rapid growth. It brought to a halt various leaps taken in the tourism sector.
The situation got darker day by day.
As normalcy was within grasps, a new wave has grappled this nation. It has struck communities far and wide, some prepared while others can do nothing but wait. Through all of this, the Nepalese people have not let down hope. Resilient at heart. Nepalese have in the darkest days shown great dexterity in making the most out of every situation. In the year 2021, arrivals were down 35% from the past year. In 2020, Nepal welcomed 230,085 travellers whereas the figure was just 150,962 in 2021.
These aren’t just numbers. The major contributor to development through tourism was trekking. In 2021, only 34,000 travellers visited Nepal for trekking purposes. Routes once dense were deserted, and domestic trekkers were also low. Trekking brought the income right in front of a simple Nepali families doorstep. Regions such as Annapurna, Everest, Kanchanjunga and Mustang flourished greatly due to trekking and tourism. Trekking and mountaineering were both contributors to the national GDP. The industry took a 6.7 % share of the GDP in 2019 and was responsible for 6.9 % of all employment.
Even with low arrival’s, the businesses are doing their best to survive. Most businesses owners are dilemmatic. They can neither move forward nor shut down. Some have a large debt, whereas others hang on by a thread. In all of this, Nepalese souls still have hope. They see good days ahead of them, a new normal where they can bring back the glory of the yesteryears.
Development experts had always warned of a dire economic crisis that would emerge out of dependency in only one sector. On paper, tourism is only a minimal contributor. But for communities in tourism centred destinations, it was the prime source of income. Families had to find new means or go back to traditional methods to sustain themselves.
So, what can be done? Even though it isn’t just Nepal that is grappling with the pandemic, we can learn a lesson from our failures. Firstly, income needs to be diversified, especially for small communities heavily reliant on tourism. Secondly, better protocols for safety and hygiene must be drawn. It must be followed by not just major establishments in the urban centres but also in the trekking regions of Nepal. Thirdly, domestic travel should be heavily promoted with incentives and vacation days provided via legislation. Finally, businesses and the tourism entities of Nepal need to start thinking outside the box to attract more travellers.
Apart from these measures, all the tourism industry can do is wait and watch. In solidarity must all the sectors work together to support each other in these difficult times. For travel bugs however, they can plan today and travel tomorrow.
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The Trails of Poonhill - Part 2
Poonhill is a destination that one must experience in a lifetime. The view is spectacular, the journey is beautiful, and the hospitality is the cherry on top.
I am not a notorious trekker but I cannot help resist experiencing Nepal through its riveting trails. When I decided to trek the Annapurna region, Poonhill trek was the obvious choice for me. The route I choose is as follows:
1. Pokhara to Nayapul
2. Nayapul to Tikhedhunga (Overnight)
3. Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani (Overnight)
4. Ghorepani to Ghandruk (Overnight)
5. Ghandruk to Pokhara (Overnight)
The most alluring factor for me was the diverse ecosystem of this trial. It would take me on a mini adventure of the Annapurna region. 5 beautiful nights would be spent inside cosy tea houses, which I always choose over camping. It's not because camping reminds me of the primitive days but, I wouldn't be able to share great memories with the innkeepers and their families. Plus, the added equipment is always a hassle.
The famed sunrise view from Poonhill was like a wanted poster inside of my head. It motivated me during the strenuous inclines, which felt never-ending.
As I was travelling in a group, our driver was kind enough to take us a bit higher than Nayapul. As it was growing dark, he was concerned for our safety, thus ensuring us that he'd take the bus as close to Tikhedhunga as possible.
We thanked him for his help and began our trek to Tikhedunga. As it was already getting dark, visibility was minimal. The power of the Himalayan river could be felt in its thunderous sound. When I arrived in Tikhedunga, the village was already asleep. However, our innkeeper and his family were patiently waiting for our arrival.
They couldn't offer us a traditional welcome because it was very late. The hot water had already been exhausted by my friends, who finished their meal quick and bolted. Tikhedhunga is a lovely village, and I couldn't explore it much. Early morning we had breakfast and began our trek for Ghorepani. This is the longest part of the journey. We left at around 7 in the morning and reached at 5 in the evening. Once our beds were decided, we explored the beautiful village.
The Poonhill and its breathtaking view brought the villagers ample fortune. They talked about how before this route was established, there was nothing much here. But now, it looks similar to a bustling semi-urban community during peak season.
We came back to our lodge and gathered in the commons. We indulged ourselves in the radiation of the boiler. Once dinner was complete, we slept early. As we would be leaving for Poonhill before the break of dawn.
The hike to Poonhill felt a bit difficult because I woke up late. I reached the viewpoint before sunrise and readied by equipment to photograph the moment. With the break of dawn, the grey mountains slowly turned to gold. The view was riveting, and I was in total awe.
We then made a break for the lodge. Breakfast and check-out later, we marched towards Ghandruk. I was the last guy in the pack because I took too many pauses taking pictures of beautiful waterfalls. I then ramped my pace to catch up with the lot. I was hungry and tired. Thus the incline of Tadapani felt like ages.
When I reached the Tadapani viewpoint, I couldn't help but sit on the bench for 5 minutes and marvel at the sheer beauty that laid ahead of me. I wanted to spend the night, but we were already booked at Ghandruk. Post lunch, I began my hike. I reached Ghandruk late because of my photographic stops. Dinner and a warm cup of tea later, I called it a night. Exploring Ghandruk never gets old. A trip to the museum, walking along tight alleys paved with stone and just staring at the beautiful mountains.
The majority of my trip was now over, and given the bus stand is just a few hours walk from Ghandruk, I too it slow. We boarded the bus and made our way to Pokhara.
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The Trails of Poonhill - Part 1
Witnessing the sunrise from Poonhill is something hard to explain. It's an experience that shoots a bolt down your spine, and with the first rays of light, you learn to see the good in your bad. The journey to this hill is a challenge, but it is not impossible.
The Annapurna region for years has been the picturesque image of Nepal. Its villages and lifestyle have been the inspiration for numerous paintings. Over the years, it became one of the most trekked regions along with Everest. Amongst the trails in the region, the trek to Ghorepani- Poonhill became widely popular because of its accessibility and varied eco-systems it covers during the journey. The highlight of this trip is a magnificent panoramic view of the Himalayan range from Poonhill at 3210m.
The trek falls under the category of medium difficulty because it doesn't feature extreme walking periods. The average walking time per day is 8 hours. During peak season, this trail is jam-packed with trekkers. During the off-season, the tea houses and paths are normally empty. It falls under three major trekking routes:
A. Ghorepani - Ghandruk Trek
B. Khayar Barah Trek and,
C. Annapurna Circuit Trek
Apart from which, customs itineraries can be drawn to end the trek at various other points at Annapurna Conservation Area as well.
Where can I get my TIMS card?
Nepal Tourism Board provides the TIMS card. You may acquire your permit either at the central office in Kathmandu or at their regional office in Pokhara.
How long is the trek?
Ghorepani- Poonhill Trek can be completed in 3-4 days, excluding travel time to Pokhara from Kathmandu.
How do I start?
Once you have landed at TIA (Tribhuvan International Airport), you can either choose to experience a bit of the capital (Kathmandu) for a few days or get a connecting flight to Pokhara. The distance between Pokhara and Kathmandu is 200 KM. You can opt to take a bus instead of a flight as well. Your available options are either local or deluxe buses.
Deluxe buses leave every morning at 7 AM from Sorakhute Bus Station in Kathmandu. You may either book a ticket beforehand or arrive an hour early, pay and embark directly at the terminal. We recommend these buses as they have air conditioning. The travel time ranges between 7-8 hours, with stops for lunch and snacks at good quality rest stops.
You can skip all of the hassles by contacting the front desk officer at the hotel. S/he shall do their best to arrange these services for you. They can also develop a proper itinerary to experience Ghorepani-Poonhill at a reasonable rate.
When is the right time to visit this region?
The season of spring and autumn are optimum to visit this region. Pre- winter is a preferred time to visit the region. Nepal is open throughout the year, apart from peak winter season this trek is possible in any other months.
What is the highest altitude during this trek?
The highest elevation is at Poon Hill, which is at 3210m.
Do I need camping equipment for this trek?
No, the Ghorepani- Poonhill trek is a tea house trek, meaning ample tea houses which double as lodges exist along the route to accommodate the trekkers.
Do I require added payments to enter certain areas?
The total cost in permits during the trip includes TIMS Trekkers Permit and Annapurna Conservation Permit. Apart from which, you will require a minimal amount to enter Poonhill viewpoint.
What is the most popular route?
Nayapul- Tikhedunga- Ghorepani- Tadapani- Ghandruk is the most popular route
Do I need acclimatization days ?
No, as this trek features gentle gains, an extra day for acclimatization is not required. Trekkers are however, recommended to not fast track the itinerary and enjoy the extra time exploring the area.
The next part of this article shall feature a review of the destination.
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Museums in the Kathmandu Valley - Part 2
The Kathmandu Valley is an ancient city, parts of which are still left to be studied. It is abundant of stories and artefacts from decades and centuries ago, waiting to be told. The museums of the valley do exactly that; giving a sensation of reflecting and reliving the history through details and artefacts that come from its history.
Hanuman Dhoka Museum
The Hanuman Dhoka palace was built during the Licchavi period, around the 4th to 8th century, and it was expanded in the 17th century by king Pratap Malla. The main palace was constructed during the Malla period, and the rest of it was later constructed by the Ranas.
Surviving through the earthquake of 1934 and 2015, after multiple reconstructions, today, it stands tall with the integrity of its history and is now turned into Hanuman Dhoka Museum. In the entrance, a more than three hundred years old statue of Hanuman is situated as a symbol of protection. The main courtyard after the entrance of the museum is Nasal Chowk. This extravagant area used to be the place that held coronations for the former Kings. With that, the Narsingha Statue, the statue of Lord Vishnu in its man-lion form is located that was built by King Pratap Malla in 1673. In the Galleries of the museum lies the age-old objects and artefacts from the Licchavi dynasty to the Malla dynasty to the Shah dynasty. It is situated in the heart of the Kathmandu Durbar Square in Kathmandu Valley.
Bhaktapur Museum
The ancient city of Bhaktapur is built with centuries-old rich architecture among its bricked temples, palaces and is home to three museums, out of which the National Museum is one of the most significant museums in the valley.
Tucked in between two serene statues of lions, The National art museum was opened, formally as a palace, in 1980 by King Bhupatindra Malla. Later, in 1960, it was set up as the National art gallery by the Government of Nepal. For centuries, this palace, now a museum, has been the hub for medieval and Licchavi art and history. This tiny haven of wonders, although covering a small area, encompasses the collection of manuscripts and chronicles coming from the 11th century. It also holds on to ancient paubha paintings, Hindu versions of Thangka paintings along with classic paintings of deities, gods, and goddesses surviving the age of time. The gallery is also lined up with portraits of all the Shah Kings until the end of the monarchy. This museum is located at the west entrance of the Bhaktapur Durbar Square in Kathmandu Valley.
National Museum
Once known as ‘Chhauni Silkhana’ meaning ‘the stone house of arms and ammunitions’, was established in 1928. The National Museum or the Chhauni Museum is one of the most popular museums of the country that has been a major attraction to re-living through the incidents and artefacts of the wider history.
The courtyard of the building once was used as a space to worship and perform rituals during the time of Dashain as a symbol of purity. The starting attraction of the museum is the historical artworks in the form of sculptures, murals, and paintings that are out up in the gallery.
Different weapons used in the wars of the 18th to 19th century are also displayed. This museum also safeguards natural historical artefacts of different animals, reptiles, and insect species as well. Not only that, but this museum is also the home to moon rocks collected from the moon, the mandibular bones of the whale that is the largest mammal in the world, a fossil of reptiles from the Jurassic period, and many more. It stands as a symbol of national history and artefacts, showcasing astonishing objects and moments of a different time.This museum is located in Chhauni, Kathmandu Valley.
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Museums in the Kathmandu Valley - Part 1
Museums are the storytellers of history. They don’t just tell the stories through written and recorded but make a home for details of various arts, antiquities and remains of a bygone era. The Kathmandu valley is home many of these beautiful spaces which house the lineage and history of this nation.
The general public over the years has lost interest in museums. Its sad to see how these structures that house the lineage and history of the nation and its people is forsaken. But, they play a crucial role in protecting and conserving the remains of the past. In Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal, there are numerous museums which help bring to the people the true beauty of the nation.
Narayanhiti Palace Museum
The modern Naryanhiti Palace was established by King Mahendra Bir Bikram Shah in 1963 AD. The old palace featuring baroque architecture was commissioned by Prime Minister Bir Shumsher. After its completion, the residence was moved to Naraynhiti from Hanuman Dhoka.
Today, in the remembrance of the lives of the Royal Family, the palace has been turned into a museum that safeguards valuable items and artefacts under the serene semi-modern Nepalese architecture surviving through the decades. It stands as an image of the Royal families. The rooms in the palace museum feature names derived from the various districts of Nepal. It is also the home of the Royal Crown. The museum portrays how the royal family spent their daily lives in each room, from where they dined together and celebrated events. Today, it has become a place of exploring the mystery of the Royal Massacre with the bullet scars and bloodstains still remaining. The palace museum is located in Durbarmarg, Kathmandu.
Jyapu Museum
Jyapu Museum offers a journey through the history of the Jyapu community, their lifestyles, and artefacts all the way from the Kirat and Licchavi dynasty to the present times. It was established by the local Jyapu Community of Patan in 2012 to nurture and preserve the stories of their ancestors for the present and future generations. Jyapus are known for their hard work as farmers, musicians, and artists.
The museum starts with a portrayal of the ancient lifestyle through clay utensils and artefacts of Jyapu culture. It follows through the periods in chronological order, showcasing household objects and modes of presenting the art from the time of their ancestors. Today it serves as a symbol of their hard work and integrity. From traditional handlooms and water vessels to more than fifty ancient Newari musical instruments that used to be played in the ceremony, this museum stands as a reflection and resonation of the history built by this community. It is located amid the Jyapu community settlement in Patan, Lalitpur.
It all together combines the intricacies that make up the Jyapu community who are credited as the true native inhabitants of this valley. The space also doubles as the head quarter for Jyapu Samaj, an organization created for the upliftment of the Jyapu community.
Patan Museum
The Patan Durbar, built-in 1734, used to be one of the royal palaces of the former Malla king of the Kathmandu Valley. However, its origin is believed to go as old as the Licchavi Period. After multiple renovations and restoration of the ancient glory, Patan Museum opened in 1997 to safeguard the culture and artefacts preserved through centuries. Historians and archaeologists believe that the main structure during ancient times was part of a monastery which was then converted into the residence for the monarchs during the Lichhavi Era.
The Lichhavi development structure always features the concept of the divine centre. Patan, one of the most ancient cities of the valley features the same style with the royal palace right at its heart. Today it houses unique antiquities of the Newar culture, especially of Lalitpur and presents them in an organized manner for the public. The square of Patan Dubar is credited as an open air museum due to the high significance of its various temples and monuments.
It is constructed with a blend of ancient and modern architecture. The rooms are built of timber wood and brick, and the carefully preserved artefacts are lined up in the room. It protects ancient artefacts ranging from paintings, weapons, and musical instruments to costumes, statues, and weapons. It is situated inside Patan Durbar Square, and it takes about 2 hours to take a breath into its wonders.
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The Legend of Bhimsen - Part II
While walking down the narrow allies of Newar dwellings, you might hear the phrase, Bhimsen maharaj ki jaya (Cheers to Lord Bhimsen). His name is invoked by his patrons while lifting heavy weights or before a trading venture. Worshipped by both Hindus and Buddhists, he holds a special place in the pantheon of Newar deities.
Continued…
The king was impressed with the artist's creation and gave his approval. It was brought to the hall of the temple for the installation ceremony by the priests. During the installation process, the king personally paid a visit. He wished to bask under the aura of the triumphant statue.
The priests initiated the ritual process to bring life into it. He began chanting spells and bestowed many offerings to Bhimsen. To demonstrate his tantric capacity, the priest inserted a piece of cotton inside its nostrils. To the surprise of all, the idol sneezed thrice. During this process, light emanated from the idols nostrils, concluded that it had come to life.
The king was astounded seeing this magnificent feat. He quickly took off a ring of nine jewels from his right hand and presented it to his guardian deity. From this point on, the square opposite the temple was renamed tuyulako by the people, meaning a place blessed by Bhimsen light.
The people of Lalitpur amongst all the Newar dominions worship Bhimsen the most.
He is revered as the god of wealth and prosperity by them. Households engaged in trade and commerce regard him as their patron saint.
Bhimsen his strength and fierceness are desired by all. Children chant, I want to be like Bhimsen; strong and mighty.
In Lalitpur, we have two festivals dedicated to Bhimsen; Bhin dyo Puja and Bhimsen Jatra. The first is a linear procession that features devotees clad in traditional attire. They circumvent the city and offer their prayers to the numerous temples dedicated to him. It is celebrated annually in the month of Magh (January-February).
The second festival, Bhimsen Jatra, is celebrated with great pop and flare. On the ninth day of Bhadras (August- September) dark moon, a gilded chariot is placed on the dabbali (raised platform) in front of the temple by devotees.
Thousands of devotees wait to witness a procession that makes a designated route around the city. The temple priest ventures onto the upper floor of the temple to take a replica idol of Bhimsen. Legend has it that it is full of many replicas. A statue automatically comes forward while the priest enters the room.
He then gently brings it down onto the second floor and performs an invoking ritual. It is then taken outside the temple by him, and a loud cheer follows. The revellers make ready the chariot, and the idol is placed onto it by the priest. The revellers chant Bhimsen maharaj ki jaya as they lift the heavy chariot. Musical ensembles provide tunes of encouragement, and the procession moves forward. Patrons holding incenses lead the parade.
The prescribed route is within the old city. It makes its way through narrow allies and stops time and again due to an overhead maze of wires. Revellers take turns to lift the chariot, and the festival ends almost at midnight after it completes its circular route.
It is then rested in front of the temple by the revellers. The priest carries the idol back into the temple. The festival is then drawn to a close. The revellers complain of aching shoulders but tell tales of a glorious night the next day.
This festival is the hallmark of Newari culture, the Newars credit Bhimsen for their blessed fortunes. Newars dominated branches of the silk route and became renowned traders and merchants.
The farming community worships Karunamaya (Rato Matysendranath) and the merchants, Bhimsen. These two living deities who attained divinity through their compassion, strength and grace hold a special place in the heart of all Newars. The temple sustained damage during the 2015 earthquake. The restoration was completed recently with the help of patrons and agencies.
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The Legend of Bimsen - Part I
The Newar pantheon features a multitude of deities. It is a diverse array of gods and goddesses of both Hinduism and Buddhism. Amongst them is Lord Bhimsen, worshipped by the households with the occupation of trade and commerce. Revered as the god of wealth and physical strength, he also has a festival known as Bhimsen Jatra. How he entered our pantheon is foretold by a legend, something that I, like other Newars, grew up with as a classic bedtime story.
In the square of Patan Durbar lies a beautiful temple dedicated to Lord Bhimsen. In Newari, he is called Bhin Dyo. He (Lord Bhimsen) is one of the five Pandava brothers of the epic Mahabharata. Amongst them, he is the only one worshipped as people believe he alone attained divinity.
He was an extraordinary child with great strength and bravery. Hence he was named Bhimsen, meaning terrific. During his youth, he was famous for two things: his brute strength and a large appetite. Reaching adulthood, he grew a robust moustache, one to match his terrific and fierce outlook.
The highlight of his life was a great battle fought against Dushasana, his rival. He (Dushasana) was one of the Kauravas who dragged Draupadi. She was the common wife of the Pandavas. During an event, Draupadi was pulled by her hair and stripped naked right before her husbands. Bhimsen was consumed with rage but was helpless. He upheld the code of honour but marked Dushasana and vowed to kill him.
During the great war of Kurukshetra, he killed Dushasana with one blow from his mace.
In a land, east of Kathmandu valley lies Dolakha. Here it is believed the Pandavas spent their twelve years of exile. It is also home to a unique temple dedicated to Bhimsen. In the centre of this temple is a triangular shaped stone idol of Bhimsen. The local people worship it as an idol. The temples uniqueness comes from its ability to foretell danger.
The idol perspires from time to time, and it symbolises a bad omen for the country. The locals believe that it is Bhimsen trying to protect his people by warning them through sweating. The idol is said to have sweated in:
1. 2007 B.S: When the Rana Regime ended
2. 1934 A.D: Before the great earthquake
3. 2001 A.D: A few days before the royal massacre
In an ancient time, a lady of Dolakha was married to the prince of Lalitpur. She brought with her a clay idol of Bhimsen as dowry. It depicted him engaged in battle with Dushasana. The figure was enshrined in a small temple by them.
The temple was restored after a fire in the 17th century by King Sri Nivas Malla. He raised it to 4 storeys high and placed three roofs.
After the death of Sri Navas Malla, his son Yog Narendra Malla became King. He desired to replace the clay idol with a metal one. He paid a visit to the workshop of a renowned artist and put forth his request. This craftsman was known for being the best in metal casting and modelling. The King envisioned a magnificent statue of Bhimsen stance in a fighting pose against his rival.
The artist began work, and within a few days, he prepared a handsome wax model. An ancient technique where molten metal is poured onto a wax mould to develop a cast.
The King inspected the model but was disappointed as it lacked life. He requested the artist to remodel and focus on a more lively fighting style. The artist remodelled it as requested, but the King was still disappointed. The King became so furious that he caught hold of the artist's neck.
The artist cried loudly, my King, forgive me. I know what is missing, and you have shown it to me. Give me another chance. I shall not disappoint again. He let go of his neck and gave him one last chance.
He was able to satisfy the King in his final attempt. The idol looked fierce, lifelike and portrayed Bhimsen in a fighting stance about to kill Dushasana.
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An Interesting Yomari
The mouthwatering delicacy known as Yomari is a staple in Newari households. Traditionally prepared during the Newar month of Thinla, which coincides with the Gregorian period of December, the treat is a homage first presented to the deity Annapurna Devi. It is prepared in a similar shape in most Newar households but in a peculiar manner in the community of Pucho.
The month of Thinla in the Newari calendar is when the paddy seeds planted during Tachala sway like fields of gold. The delicacy of Yomari is part of the harvest moon festival, which is known as Yomari Punhi (Purnima). It coincides with the Gregorian month of December.
A Yomari has a special place in the heart of most Newars. The name is derived from a fruit that falls in the fig family natively found in the region. The shape of the fruit is a base for a traditional Yomari prepared with the first batch of grain and presented to Annapurna Devi. Linguistically, Yo means preferred or liked, and Mari means bread.
Traditionally it features a mixture of molasses and brown sesame seeds. The shell is prepared from powdered white rice and is shaped to resemble the Yomari fruit. Apart from the month of Thinla, the delicacy is put together during various family rituals, especially during the second birthday. Medium to small-sized Yomaris are strung together to make a garland offered to the child.
The account of an interesting Yomari is from the community of Pucho. This place today is generally called Pulchowk. This area is home to Maharjan farmers whose ancestry is from the Eastern mountains. As per chronicles, the King of Patan gave refuge to Kirats banished from their homeland. The King welcomed them with open arms. Acknowledging their preference of living in higher altitudes, they were given a place in Pucho.
The historicity of the region goes as back as the draining of the lake known as Nagard, which today is the Kathmandu Valley. The peak of the hillock of Pucho is known as Shilapur Banagiri. Banagiri in ancient Newari means a place where an arrow fell. As per chronicles, after Bodhisatva Manjushri decided to drain this lake to create a sanctum, he shot a powerful arrow for the purpose. It fell on this very hill. Post which, Bodhisatva Manjushri came up with a different plan which featured draining the water from Kotwaldwar (Devichaur). Kotwal is the name of the mountain, and dwar means a gate.
As the valley prospered, it became renowned in Asia as a prime Buddhist sanctuary. Locals suppose that the Great Samrat Ashoka visited this valley and established five earthen mounds. Four of which were dedicated to the yugas. The symbolism behind the fifth is still unknown. These mounds then later become the boundary of the city of Patan. The western stupa is on the foothill of Silapur Banagiri.
This mound plays a historic role as not just a boundary marker but also a landmark. The community of Pucho, which primarily featured Buddhists and the later Kirat refugees who assimilated into the Newars, hold it as a part of their identity.
During Yomari Punhi, the locals cook the delicacy in a unique shape similar to the earthen mound. It is known as Chibamari, Chiba meaning an earthen mound/stupa and Mari meaning bread. The shell is distinctly triangular and bears an uncanny resemblance to the 13 step finial of the Pucho mound. The filling is more chunky in this area, meaning the molasses is not melted.
The incorporation of two distinct cultures shows the importance of religious values and monuments of this region. The Chibamari is distinct. Over the years, it has become the identity of the people.
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The Importance of Karunamaya: Rato Matsyendranath
Amongst the various deities of the Kathmandu Valley, Karunamaya holds the highest rank. He is known by multiple names such as Bunga Dyo (God of Bunga), Aryavalokitshwor Padmapani and Rato Matsyendranath. He is revered by citizens of both the Hindu and Buddhist faith. One of the most elaborate chariot festivals in the world happens annually in his honour.
Non-Newars always marvel at the magnitude of the festivities that surround them. The pop and flair combined with the faith and dedication towards building a chariot 5 stories tall and circumventing it in the old streets of Patan is a sight to behold. The locals view him as a messiah and would not refrain from turning any stone for his celebration.
So why is Karunamaya so important?
Thousands of years ago, the citizens of this valley faced a dire crisis. It was significant enough to wipe out the entire civilisation of Kathmandu Valley. As agriculture was the occupation of the native inhabitants, a mysterious ill plagued the fields. The seeds planted with love and care grew to only wither. The farms that were to resemble gold began to look like desolation.
The people didn't know the cause, nor did they know the exact remedy. With the years harvest down the drain, they could only hope the reserves would last them long enough for a rescue. As the people began to worry, the King could not hold his heart. King Narendra-deva was known for his service and dedication to his people. But he had abdicated the throne in favour of his son. King Narendra-deva chose to spend the rest of his life observing monastic discipline.
The tantric master named Banudhatta Acharya, who sided in Te Bahal, knew that far away in a distant land resided the solution to our crisis. He informed the present King Bara-deva and requested him to go to his father and request if he would accompany the tantric master in his journey. For as long as the true King is alive, he cannot take his son.
King Narendra-deva accepted. He, along with Bandudhatta and Ratnakar Jyapu, left for an adventure. The destination was Kamakhya, which falls in present-day Odisha of India. There, the team met with a master farmer named Karunamaya. The trio told him of the ill that plagued their kingdom. Karunamaya wished to visit the valley and relieve it himself but wasn't allowed to by his mother. Thus, he passed on to them the needed tools, seeds and knowledge to compact the famine. The trio then bid farewell to the master and returned to the valley. They then applied the findings as instructed, and the fields slowly but steadily began to sway like gold.
It was this feat, the generosity of one man. Who, without any expectations, helped three ailing strangers that earned him a high rank in the pantheon of this valley. Even though he was mortal, the people in this valley immortalised him. A temple was built in his honour in the village of Bungamati. The settlement was renamed Amarpur, meaning a land immortal.
An elaborate chariot festival was designed by priest Bandudhatta. A 5 storey tall chariot was envisioned with featured all the elements of the journey and the temple of Bungamati.
Thousands of years later, even to this day, the people of this valley have not forgotten his generosity. Historians believe that he had a different name. Karunamaya was the general call name which means the compassionate one. Members of the Buddhist faith refer to him as Aryavalokiteshwor Padmapani, whereas Hindu's call him Rato Matsyendranath due to the connection with the tantric master Gorakhnath.
The people ensure the chariot festival happens even at the worst odds because they fear the illness shall return again. All the necessary rituals are performed every year to invoke the deity to ensure the valley's prosperity. The chariot is built at Pulchowk and circumvents the old routes of the city. It comes to an end in the open field known as Jawalakhel. Once the ceremonial display of the bhoto is complete, the idol is taken to Bungamati. Here it rests for 6 months of the year and the other half in the temple inside Patan.
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A Unique Day: Bibah Panchami
Bibah Panchami, the day that marks the marriage of Lord Ram and Goddess Sita, is a beautiful festival of the Mithila Culture hosted every year in Janakpur, the Mithila capital. On this day, a week-long reenactment of the marriage is done with grand celebrations of the deed that frameworks the ancient Mithila culture and its history.
As written in the legend of Ramayana, the ancient city of Janakpur was the home of the eldest daughter of King Janak, the king of the Mithila Kingdom, princess Sita. She was the daughter of the universe, an extraordinary, ideal woman resonating the beauty of womanhood and femininity. She is also known as the daughter of the Earth. Sita, being the only one who so effortlessly lifted the impossible bow of Lord Shiva, King Janak organized a Swayambar for her where he decided that the man who could lift up that bow would be the one to marry the beautiful princess. After countless men trying but failing the task, the Prince Ram of Ayodhya came in and lifted the bow as effortlessly as Sita did.
The divine couple got married, and ever since then, to celebrate the union of the idealistic gods, Bibah Panchami is celebrated on the fifth day of the Shukla Paksha in the Aradhayana months according to the Mithila Calendar (that falls somewhere around November to December).
As written in the Ramayana, the couple along with Ram’s brother went to reside in a forest (vanvas) as per the wish of his stepmother. The king had told his young queen that he would grant her two wishes. She then told the king to banish Ram and crown her son, Bharata as king of Ayodhya. During this exile, Sita was abducted by Ravan, the king of Lanka. A large battle was bought between the forces of Lord Ram and Ravana. Lord Ram became victorious and was reunited with Sita. Lord Ram was then hailed as a hero and was rightfully instated as the king of Ayodhya. Over the years, their story became a symbol for Hinduism and the victory of good over evil.
Thousands of people crowd the Janaki Temple, Ram temple, and many other temples of the Holy city of Janakpur to worship the god Ram and Sita in the mornings. The Janaki Temple is decorated for the celebration with colourful garlands, flowers, Mithila arts, and the sacred statue of Ram and Sita that stands in the centre of the temple is also cleaned and put on new clothes, just like it is done during any Mithila weddings.
The devotees perform different traditional marriage rituals that are traditionally done at weddings. Every rite is run through with devotional songs ‘bhajans’ that recite the stories and purposes of every action performed. Men and women, especially kids, are dressed up as Lord Ram and Mother Sita and are carried around in chariots during this day. The procession takes place on the bustling roads in front of the temples. Traditional wedding music is played to imitate the ‘baaraat’ (janti) of Lord Ram as he came to marry the princess. In the evenings, the devotees and people of the city gather up in the fairs put out in front of temples where people can explore, dance, eat to celebrate the auspicious day of their gods with each other.
Bibah Panchami stands as a symbol of Mithila culture, which dates back thousands of years. Even today, the exact process followed during the marriage of Ram and Sita are followed with the utmost attention to detail. The various aspects of the celebration present the rich artistic history of the Mithila people and the communities culture. Which has been passed down for generations.
Along with which a sense of togetherness is also taught to the next generation. Families, neighbours, far relatives come together as one, share delicacies they prepared at their homes the night before, and find a reason to appreciate each other and their identity as a community to celebrate the holy matrimony. Making the festival of Bibah Panchami a portrayal of the integrity of the community they build up together.
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Exploring Dolpa
The far-flung hidden land of Dolpa concealed within the wondrous pristine mountains of northern Nepal is beauty beyond measure. A place where breathtaking landscapes blend with barren desert-like plans, ancient religious shrines, mystical rivers, turquoise lakes, and the obscure yet riveting lives and culture of the people.
Situated at the north of the mid-western part of Nepal, Dolpa is the largest district surrounded by the Dhaulagiri Mountain range at the south and east, Churen Himal range at the west, and the Tibetan Plateau at the north. Accessible through land and air, the journey can be taken by a flight to Jumla and then a trek to Dolpa or a bus ride to the nearest urban centre of Dolpa.
This region features a series of treks that help you explore the last of the virgin land of Nepal. These far-off adventures take you miles from the urban settlement where life seems to have stood still. The dense forestry is home to pristine flora and fauna, and the crown jewel is the beautiful lake of Shey Phoksundo. The rugged plain rocky landscape, religious shrines and ancient monasteries are something out of the world. The amalgam of which help create an experience of a lifetime.
The treks of this region fall into the category of difficult to extreme. A trekker needs to be in the best possible shape to conquer the seemingly endless stretch of land. A direct escape to Shey Poksundo doesn't require any camping. The longer route, however, features some areas where camping is required.
Along the dense hills of the National Park lies the alpine freshwater oligotrophic lake, Shey Phoksundo Lake, the deepest lake in the country. The emerald blue crystal clear waters elegantly reflect the snowy peaks, serve a heavenly experience of nature amongst the mystical frontier land of Dolpa. As per local lore, a wicked demoness flooded a village to let the saint Padmasambhava know of her existence. The remains of this old village are still visible in relics that surround the area. Dispersed near the shoreline are small gompas, stupas and shrines of this arcane village. The new settlement rests atop the dam that created the lake of Shey Phoksundo.
The area is also home to a 900-year-old Pal Sentan Thasoon Chholing Gompa, an ancient Bön-Po Gompa. The region is also home to more than a hundred gompas resonating the religious and structural astonishments of the Buddhist and Bon-Po fusion. The most sacred natural element is the crystal mountain. The trekking route to and around it is known as the Crystal Mountain Trek. It is one of the most challenging treks in Nepal. A standard itinerary for Crystal Mountain is a minimum of 27 days. The mountain receives its name through the abundance of various crystals. The three enshrined Gompas of Shey Village are Komoche, Sel Sumdo, and Tsakhang Gompas that offer a spiritual adventure under the alluring roof of nature.
The forestry protects a long list of endangered fauna such as the snow leopard, Tibetan wolves, the Himalayan tahr. The flora protected by this region is Rhododendron, Salix, white Himalayan birch, silver fir that shadow this region.
The native inhabitants of this valley are former Tibetans who over time became Nepalese. Their outlook resembles the features of mongoloid, and their best trait is a beautiful smile. Due to the remoteness of this region, they still live by the ancient ways. This region preserves the last of the Bon-Po religions relics and scripts. Generations have grown up in this natural yonder, and still, for some, the world ends beyond the mountains. The lower periphery of Dolpa features Hindu inhabitants. Whereas in the north, people follow Buddhism and few elements of Bon-Po.
Agriculture, animal husbandry, collection and trade of yarsagumba, along with rare fungus, help sustain their livelihood.
Folk tales present Dolpa as Beyul, a secret valley created by Guru Rinpoche to hold uniquely pure minds. Tucked under the artsy and heavenly Himalayan rage, the northernmost part of Dolpa is home to Rokpa farmers and Drokpa nomads from Tibet.
Today, Dolpa holds a magical escape to travellers and explorers.
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The Tale of Shankadhar Sakhwa - Part II
The act of Shankadhar Sakhwa is more than of selflessness and grace. His wit and faith did not just bring him good fortune but also to the former kingdom of Kantipur.
Continued…
The day was almost at an end. Sakwal was at his courtyard staring at the heap of sand. Confusion could be seen in his face. Why did the coolies choose to dig at that very spot? They even waited for an exact time. What is this mystery?
Sakwal failed to notice that the sun had already gone down. He was so lost in his thoughts that he could not hear his wife call him for dinner. He then suddenly came back to reality and saw how it was already late. He made his way to his kitchen, where his wife was waiting for him. He finished his meal and called it a night.
In the morning, Sakwal woke up early, as usual, to head to the nearest temples and monasteries to offer his regards. He walked out of his house and was about to open the main door when he noticed something shining in the corner. He opened the main gate, and as light entered, it unveiled something that he could not comprehend. He was quick to close the door so that no one else would see it. He stood there, stiff as a tree trunk with eyes wide open.
It looked like he had seen a ghost. He called for his wife and asked her to come downstairs quickly. As she entered the courtyard, she noticed her husband just standing there. He called her to where he was and told her, my wife, please tell me that this is not a heap of gold dust?
The wife looked down and was utterly surprised. She looked towards him and said, dear husband, this is a heap of gold dust!
Inside the royal palace of Bhaktapur, one could sense that the king was angry. He was at his courtyard staring at a heap of sand. He looked towards his astrologer and said, your prediction failed. The astrologer was confused, but deep within, he was angry. He told himself that he did everything as instructed.
With the king's permission, the astrologer left for his house. He poured out all his anger within the sanctum of his four walls.
The king knew the greatness of his astrologer and how he was never wrong. While he was headed towards his room, he stumbled upon the baskets inside which the sand was brought. He saw an unusual glitter. He moved closer and inspected. He saw specks of gold dust at the bottom. He told himself, my astrologer was right!
The king ran with great haste towards the house of his astrologer. He barged inside and climbed up the stairs quickly. He saw a fire kindling in the fireplace. He noticed a book being burnt. He looked towards his astrologer and said, is this that very book you consulted to turn sand into gold? The astrologer replied, yes, my king!
The king then rushed to save whatever was left of the book. He put his hand into the fire and pulled the pages, and dipped them in a pot of milk that stood near the fire palace. The astrologer rushed to aid his king.
Once they saved what they could, the astrologer asked his majesty why he did that. The king then turned to his astrologer and said, you were right, but we were outsmarted!
Inside the royal palace of Kathmandu, Sakwal was in an audience with the king of Kantipur. Your majesty, I am a merchant, and I have enough wealth for myself and my family. I have stumbled upon this great treasure that I wish to share with my people. I am a righteous man, and if I become greedy, I might have a luxurious life, but it shall come to bite me when I have to cross the holy river after my death. I wish to pay the debt of my country and each citizen with this treasure. I am here to request your permission to do so, said Sakwal. The king was impressed by his righteousness and virtue. He gave permission to Sakwal to complete his endeavour.
To commemorate this feat, Sakwal was given the right to start a new era. He consulted with great astrologers of the kingdom and issued the new epoch of Nepal Sambat.