Cooking, the Nepali Way

Are you planning to visit Nepal soon? It may be a small country, but it has the highest mountain in the world, the eternal Mount Everest, along with more than half a dozen of the world’s highest peaks, making it a climber’s paradise. The country may be poor, but it is a veritable abode of the gods, with temples and monasteries and other shrines around every corner. It is also, of course, the birthplace of the Apostle of Peace, Lord Gautam Buddha. Well, welcome to this land of the high Himalayas, cascading mountain rivers, lush forests, and a thousand and one gods. You can look forward to an exciting time, lots of adventures on the challenging trekking trails that go through scenic valleys and windswept mountain passes and over sturdy suspension bridges high above the swirling rapids below. However, even as you experience such adventures, here’s a suggestion that could add spice to further enhance your trip. 

 Give a thought to learning about Nepali cuisine when here. More specifically, learn some Nepali cooking. After all, food is an integral part of our culture, as anywhere else; so boost your cultural experience. Nepal prides itself on its rich culture, and certainly, its unique cuisine. You know well that the country is sandwiched between the two great and diverse cultures of China and India. You also know that Chinese cuisine has carved out quite a reputation globally, and that Indian cuisine is known for its use of many exotic spices that go to make it pretty special.   Well, one obviously expects such ancient cultures to have quite a bit of influence on Nepal, but, still, you should know that Nepal has developed its own unique identity, and its own exceptional cuisine. 

Now, let’s see where you can learn Nepali cooking in the capital, Kathmandu. There’s such a place near Thamel, the tourist hub of Kathmandu, known as “Nepal Cooking Course”. It actually has shifted some 15 minutes away from its original location in Thamel to Goldhunga after the April 25, 2015, earthquake damaged it. You can opt for a half-day course (morning or afternoon), or full-day, two-day, three-day, five-day, six-day, and seven-day courses. All programs include one hour of Nepali language lessons. 

What kind of cooking do you get to learn? Well, the full-day course teaches you how to make daal bhaat, curry, pickle, and momo (the most popular staples of Nepal), as well as sel roti (a special festival bread) and kheer (rice pudding) for celebratory occasions. Classes start at 9:00 a.m. and finish at 5:00 p.m. It will cost you about 5,000 rupees. Naturally, you’ll get to learn how to prepare other food, as well, in case you choose the longer programs; dishes such as alu daam, alu paratha, samosa, Newari snacks like bara, chatamari and yomari, as well as a variety of meat dishes. If you take the seven-day course, you also get to learn how to make chyang (local beer made from rice, millet, wheat, corn, or even some fruits). You’ll surely enjoy sharing what you cooked with friends after classes are over and done with. 

Of course, there are other establishments that provide lessons in Nepali cookery, such as ECS Services in Lazimpat, which teaches household staff of expatriates mostly, but could maybe fit in a schedule for you as well. In addition, an increasing number of homestay programs include cookery lessons as part of their services. Ask you travel operator for more information regarding this. Some smart agencies even arrange for special cooking courses with some skilled Nepali housewife, a most suitable teacher to give you really good tips on homely Nepali cooking. 

It’s a given that you’ll be roaming local bazaars to buy fresh food items including just-picked vegetables and newly slaughtered meat, as well as freshly-ground masala (spices). You’ll surely find this to be a very refreshing exploration.  And, you may find it pretty interesting to learn about how to use the many masalas; what and how much goes into dishes that are part of a typical Nepali meal: daal (lentil soup), tarkari (vegetable curry), saag (spinach), maasu (chicken or mutton that needs a mix of at least 12 kinds of spices), achar (pickle: a popular one being a mix of potatoes, radish, and small brown beans). Except for maasu, which is taken once or twice a week, these are the usually food items that Nepalis eat every day. Therefore, expect your housewife-teacher to really good, since she probably cooks them day in and day out. 

Well, all said and done, discover your culinary skills, in addition to testing your physical limits, when in Nepal. It will be a worthwhile endeavor. 

The Blessed Valley of Kathmandu

The best thing about Kathmandu Valley is its weather. One tourism entrepreneur once quipped, “We say that when it is 42 degrees in Delhi, it’s 24 in Kathmandu!” Blessed with so much natural beauty and pristine environment by the good lord, and plundered of its bounties of nature in so many ways by man, Kathmandu Valley can still boast of having splendid climate all year round, even if it can no longer lay claim to fame as one of the better cities of the world that it most certainly was once upon a time. 

Many locals, as well as tourists of that time, will recall fondly the valley of the seventies. Vehicles were few and far between; a taxi was a rare luxury. One walked and walked to reach from point A to point B, but because the air was so clean and refreshing, and because there were no crowds all over the place, walking was a pleasure in itself. The people of the valley was one healthy lot, let me tell you! 

The seasons were (and still are fortunately) celebrated by festivals commemorating their particular blessings. Each season was heralded with pomp and ceremony through colorful and exuberant jatras, with the biggest celebrating the planting and harvesting seasons. It’s no surprise, since the country was primarily an agricultural nation, and still is, actually.

And, since agriculture was (still is) totally dependent on the vagaries of nature, festivals to appease, or to thank the gods of rain, were (still are) particularly important. This is most prevalent in Kathmandu Valley; Indra Jatra and Rato Machhindra Jatra being two such major festivals. Seeing as to how the rains have always been, more or less, abundant without being over-the-board in the valley, one can conclude that the gods are happy with its inhabitants. 

One can also presume that the gods must be happy at the large number of temples and shrines built in their honor all over the valley, and at the devout nature of valley dwellers. They could have well decided, in all their benevolence, that all this devoutness must be reciprocated in equal measure. So the gods, in all their munificent benevolence, seem to have decided to bless the valley with weather that is the envy of all others. And, so, what you have is charming temperate weather throughout the year. 

The gods have also taken into account the fact that during the hotter months of June, July, and August, disease is most likely to strike, partly due to the heat, and partly due to the carelessness of the denizens in keeping their surroundings clean. In their affectionate benevolence, they have decided to overlook the carelessness, and in their wisdom, know that it will take some time for the valley dwellers to be more aware about the need to clean up their act regarding the valley’s cleanliness and hygiene. 

In the meantime, in their generous compassion, they decided to clean up the valley by commanding the heavens to pour down copious rain water on the valley to stream away the accumulated dirt and rubbish. At the same time, they have taken pains to ensure that the heavens didn’t become too eager and flood the valley, adding to the distress. Thus, between June and August, the rainy season, the blessed valley receives a nice average of 200-375 mm of rain. In this respect, the monsoon here is not typical of Asia, where, in quite a few places, when it rains, it pours. 

Additionally, the rains here occur during the night, mostly. So, what you get is a clean blue sky in the morning, allowing great views of the magnificent ice-capped Himalayan peaks, the lush mountains all around, and scenic natural beauty everywhere. The abundant rains ensure a good paddy planting season, guaranteeing bumper harvest. Seeing as to how the valley dwellers have devotedly upheld the culture of the great jatras to seek the gods’ blessings, and to thank them, as well, one can conclude that this year, too, the valley will receive excellent monsoon rainfall.  And, so, one can also conclude that by the middle of October, the harvest will be done, and the valley dwellers will again, as always, be in a highly festive mood to celebrate Dashain and Tihar, the two biggest festivals of the country.  

Life in Kathmandu’s Golden Period

This is what Father Gillespie, one of the first foreigners to visit the secluded kingdom of Nepal in the 18th century, wrote in his ‘Account of the Kingdom of Nepal’: “Cat’hmandu contains about 18000 houses, Lelit Pattan contains about 25000 houses, B’hatgan contains about 12000 houses…the houses are constructed of brick and are three or four stories high…streets of all their towns are paved with brick or stone…there are also good wells made of stone…In every town there are large square verandas…called ‘pati’…on the outside of the great towns, small square reservoirs of water….” (Asiatic Researcher, 1801, Vol. II, London) 

Father Gillespie’s description of Kathmandu Valley as it was then is a flattering portrayal of the Malla period (1200-1769). Similarly, in ‘The Traditional Architecture of the Kathmandu Valley’, Wolfgang Korn writes, “The terracing of similar building elements around a temple or monastery grouping formed street spaces, courtyards, groups of houses and finally, town districts or tols…” Much of all this holds true even today, and one will many examples in the valley. Of course, there are many changes, as well. While in days past, a particular tol would have inhabitants of a particular caste and family descent, with the passing of time, this no longer holds true, although there might be dominance of a specific group. Each such tol had a sequence of streets and squares, at the centre of which was a chowk with a temple or monastery

Both security and privacy were thus givens, and while the four sides of the chowk had separate units, access to the street was usually through only the gateway of one house, this always being of low height, some say, to discourage thieves. The chowk had an important role in communal life, as a washing and bathing area, as a playground, for sitting in the sun on colder days, and as an area for grinding grain. It was also most important for organizing feasts. Such an arrangement encouraged regular interaction among the community members. Similarly, public squares had shrines, sattals (open meeting halls / free lodging houses), patis (public loggias), dyochens (communal buildings with deity shrines), dablis (platform for public performances), hitis and dhunge dharas (fountain complexes), wells, etc. These amenities fulfilled the social, economic, and ritualistic activities of the locals. The ground floors of houses facing the street had shops providing basic daily necessities. 

For the typical Newar, the tol was actually his living area. Not only because it was well facilitated, but also because houses of the period were not fully adequate to satisfy all needs. The Malla period homes did have constraints; for example, they were low-roofed, and lacked enough sunlight. Air circulation was also unsatisfactory, and the mud floors resulted in dampness that was quite prevalent. However, the innovativeness of the Malla period builders in has to be admired, especially regarding their concern for public welfare.  The hitis, for instance, served as marvelous watering places for all the locals. Designed like enormous sunken baths, water flowed copiously from beautifully carved dhunge dharas (stone spouts). They were centers of social gathering. Pokharis (ponds) throughout the towns were the reservoirs. and large numbers tuns (small draw-wells) were usually found in backyards. Drainage consisted of partly open brickwork ducts.

In those times, houses were not allowed to be built to a greater height than the temples around them, thus resulting in a harmonious skyline. It could also be observed that the height of the houses usually delineated status of its inhabitants, with the richest having homes nearer the center that were four-storied, after that, three-storied, and then, two-storied. But, all the houses were equally rich in some aspects, such as the splendid woodwork, a major feature of traditional Newari architecture. According to Dr. Ranjitkar, Nepal Director of Kathmandu Preservation Trust, and author ofauthor of the ‘Heritage Homeowner’s Preservation Manual’, “The Malla Period is the most valuable period of traditional architecture of Kathmandu Valley, for which Nepal is known all over the world.” 

Numero Uno Nepal

This is one list where Nepal comes out on top—the undisputed Number One. China (Hong Kong) is number 10, U.S.A. is number 8, India is number 4, and Japan is number 2. No, it’s not a ranking of the world’s richest, poorest, least healthy, most polluted, truly democratic, thoroughly corrupt, and so on. It’s a list of the world’s most photogenic countries. And, yes, you heard it right; Nepal is the hands-down Numero Uno. (http://goo.gl/wLP5u6)

This list was prepared in 2014 by Rough Guides photographer Tim Draper of England, who has shot images for 24 Rough Guides throughout his career as a professional travel photographer. Rough Guides Ltd. is a travel guidebook, owned by Penguin Random House, which covers more than 200 destinations around the world.

Here’s how he describes his Nepal experience: “My top pick is Nepal, because there’s no other place like Nepal. Kathmandu has just a unique vibrancy, an amazing feel to it. Really historical, you feel like you are lost in time. Soon as you get out of Kathmandu, you are in an ancient terraced landscape. You can go and explore smaller towns. Photography is fantastic everywhere you go, fantastic portraits of people, and a real feeling of time slowed down. Fantastic photo opportunities, of course, as you get further up in the Himalayas. 

“You get wilder, more amazing, natural wonders, great terrain, great terraced fields of rice, small cobbled villages, fantastic ancient architecture, a really, really, great, people, and for me, still the most amazing thing I have ever seen, the greatest natural wonder, is Everest. I go up in the evening and I wait, and slowly watch all the tourists come off the viewpoint, and I wrap myself in my sleeping back up on the viewpoint, and wait for the sun to set. Because what you see is this golden yellow light on Everest and the orange to red to purple, blue, and finally, indigo, and it is really an awesome experience. It’s a really bright thing to see.”  (https://goo.gl/YRmitv)

Indeed, this is great feather in our cap, considering that there are so many beautiful destinations around this fascinating world. It’s a high honor to be so chosen, and here’s hoping our local photographers take this as a pointer towards even more adventurous shoots around the country, in the high Himalayas, the teeming Terai, and the serene hills. They say a picture is worth a thousand or more words, but it goes without saying that the picture should be from the hands of one capable of doing justice to it, and Nepal’s beauty is certainly deserving of the best. Its munificent natural bounty is something that mesmerizes even the most jaded traveler, and its people are so simple and naturally friendly, that no one who comes across them can but reciprocate in kind. 

Yes, it is Nepal’s natural beauty and its friendly people that make the country a favorite of many, and a destination that they would like to visit time and again. It is no exaggeration to say that the country garners a fair amount of repeat visitors, and it is not wrong to say that they are our greatest ambassadors. As a travel agency professional says, “It is only difficult to attract a tourist the first time. But once they come here, they end up as being our avid admirers, and our most effective ambassadors.” 

Dedicated Endeavor

In a tranquil location in a lane off the main road in Baluwatar is a house that’s full of children aged between three and fourteen. Twenty seven of them are boys while 26 are girls. Coming from all over the country, these orphaned and abandoned children are all fortunate to have found a home in Aishworya Children’s Home under the kind and capable guardianship of Ms. Nirmala Ghimire and her family.

In addition to some staff members who work on a voluntary basis, she has able aides in her son Pramod and daughter Pramila, as well as in her daughter-in-law Ms. Binita Ghimire, who herself had been running a home for the physically challenged before she got married to Mr. Pramodsome years ago. Managing a single household with four or five members including a couple of children is hard enough in today’s world, and here we are talking about the care and upbringing of 53 children! It is indeed a herculean task, but one that the Ghimire family seems perfectly capable of.    

How Ms. Nirmala came to run such a home makes for an interesting story. It was in 2005 that she found two dirty, hungry, and homeless boys, Jeetu (10) and Arun (8), on the streets of Balaju. She discovered that they were also very sick, so she took them to a hospital. Later, the boys were placed in an orphanage, where she visited them often. Then, a month later, she found Jack (9) and Andy (3), two abandoned brothers, in Chamati, whom she took along to the same orphanage.  

However, the orphanage owner suffered a heart attack a year later, and the children were placed in another orphanage, where their treatment was far from good, if not outright abusive. Seeing this, Ms. Nirmala left her job as a driving instructor and sold her landed property to establish her own home for such children, where not only are they looked after well, but their educational needs are also taken care of.  It is a great source of satisfaction to her to see many of her children grow up into responsible citizens and stand on their own feet. 

Overcoming Hurdles Determinedly

Srijanshil Apang Awaj Nepal (Voice of Creative Disabled Nepal) is an organization located in Maijubahal, Chahabil, Kathmandu, which was established in 2065 to provide shelter for physically challenged girls. What’s more, its primary aim is to provide all of them with an education. The organization’s motto is, “Don’t give us pity, give us opportunity; don’t be biased towards us, give us dignity”.

Its founder chairperson is Ms. Tulasa KC, who was born in Pyuthan. “I came to Kathmandu in 2057,” she says. “I have around 14 years experience working in this sector, having worked for about 10 years in the National Disabled Organization as Community Worker. I have also received training in physiotherapy.” Talking about her past, she says, “As a child, I had an accident once and injured both my legs. I couldn’t walk for a long time, but I persisted in my efforts and tried walking with the wall as a support. In time, I could walk well enough, and now I am fine.”

Of the 15 women in her center, 5 have to move round in wheelchairs. “The wheelchairs are very expensive,” she says, “and they have to be customized as per need of the user.” According to her, even if someone wants to donate a wheelchair, they have to first have it customized to the user’s needs. “That is what the UN has specified,” says she. Indeed, having worked so long with physically challenged people, she has excellent knowledge about rules and guidelines regarding their rights and privileges. Coming back to the cost of wheelchairs, they can cost anywhere between Rs.15, 000 to Rs.28, 000 each.

While the organization was relatively well housed in a nice building with a garden in front, the earthquake of April 25, 2015, changed all that. The house was severely damaged, and they had to take shelter in a large tent in the garden. Also, uncertainty about the future remains, if and when they are asked to move out by the landlord. “There is still great bias against physically challenged people,” she declares. “It’s extremely difficult for people like us to find a house on rent.”  There are of course other difficulties, too. As she says, “Physically challenged people who have problems of the lower limbs need special shoes, and they are also very expensive, as are crutches, which can cost above Rs.2, 000 each.” 

Despite all the problems, it is an organization that is doing such worthwhile work for the most unfortunate of our society. So, hats off to its founder, Ms. Tulasa KC and her coworkers.

Caring for the Forgotten Aged

Ms. Sarala Panthi is the chairperson of Himalayan Briddha Ashram Center, which is located at Jalbinayak Chowk in Gongabu, Kathmandu. The Center, established in 2061/62, is home to 25 elderly people aged between 70 to 75 years. Each of these unfortunate souls has a tragic story behind them. The eldest person here is a 93-year-old woman of the Tamang community. Ms. Panthi recounts her story: “She says she is from Sindhupalchok. Her son lives in Kathmandu in a rented room. Apparently, one day last year, the son gave her Rs.50 and told her to go back to their village in Sindhupalchok. Someone found her wandering around in Mahrajgunj Chowk and brought her here. Imagine her son’s callousness! One needs to take two buses to reach Sindhupalchok.”

“And then, there is another old woman here, Ms. Bed Kumari Bhattarai, who comes from Trishuli, and is asthmatic,” she continues. “Her son is a drunkard; he drinks all day long. His mother was forced to seek refuge here in the Center. Her alcoholic son sometimes comes to visit, but he makes sure to come when I am not present! In spite of all his faults his mother loves him dearly, and is always waiting to give him biscuits and other snacks when he comes.”

Ms. Panthi sounds distressed when recounting such stories, and laments, “You know, after having seen all this happen day after day, I get really depressed. You begin to lose faith in humanity.” She herself is from Lamjung, and is now living in Kathmandu with a husband, two daughters, and a son. “Both my daughters are doing their Masters, while my son is in the U.S., having won a DV lottery visa. I am happy that he, too, is inclined towards social work.” Explaining the reason for her running an old-age home, she says, “Right from childhood, I have been very socially oriented. Even as a child, I couldn’t tolerate injustice. My grandparents were the feudal type, and I just couldn’t stand how people of lower ranks were treated, and I used to have quarrels with them about this.”  According to her, the old-age home does not have a regular source of income, but manages to get by—with much difficulty, doubtless.

Dark Pasts, Uncertain Present

Twenty-five women of varying ages sit under a tin roof making colorful products from felt in Mitranagar, near New Bus Park, in Kathmandu. At first sight, it’s a common enough sight around the Kathmandu valley, but on closer look, one notices that all the women are physically challenged in one way or the other: some are of slight stature, some are hearing- and speech-impaired, and some have problems with their limbs. 

The place they are working in is called EPSA (Entire Power in Social Action), an NGO whose mission is to provide shelter and skill training to women with special needs who are unwanted by their own kinfolk and have nowhere else to go. Its founder is Ms. Sangita Pant. Originally from Gorkha, she came to the capital some 15-16 years ago. “When I was seven years old, I had a nasty fall and injured my left arm,” she says. The injury led to severe damage to the arm. 

Having experienced the trauma of being physically challenged herself, she became committed to the cause of helping women in a similar situation to become more independent and lead dignified lives. In a largely unsympathetic society, her cause has to be lauded. “Till date, we have trained almost 500 physically challenged women,” she says, adding, “We do not take in those who have passed SLC.” She runs the EPSA Handicraft Center under the auspices of her organization, which makes felt handicraft, knitwear, and cotton items.

“Right now, there are 25 women involved in this work,” she says. “Ten of them stay in our hostel while 15 come from outside.” She pays Rs.8,000 a month as rent, and is worried that the 10-year-lease will run out in three more years. “I don’t know where we will go; nobody wants to rent out to people with disabilities.” She also discloses that she could probably give employment to 50 women provided she could find the funds to support them.  

Krishna Magar is a person of short stature who also works at EPSA. She is from Dolakha and has been here for the last two years. A shy woman, she says that she has a mother and father as well as a brother and a sister-in-law at home in her village. She is also a bit hard of hearing, but tries her best to answer my questions. She says that she has learnt to knit and make felt handicraft. So far from her birthplace, she has found a new home in EPSA.

Renuka Puri, 20, is another member of the EPSA family. She is from Sankhuwasabha. She has to take help of a crutch to move around.  “I was all right till I was 10 years old,” she says. “But, after that, I just lost use of my legs as I was walking one day. It happened very suddenly. My sister also suffered the same fate, and she too has problem with both her legs.” In addition to her injured limbs, Renuka also has a medical problem involving her blood, and has to take medicine regularly, the cost of which comes to about Rs.2,000 a month. She has been living in EPSA for the last four years. 

Similarly, Sundari Rai comes from Rautahat and now lives in Jorpati, Kathmandu. She is a mother to two sons who are studying in class 3 and 6, respectively. She has been working at EPSA for the last two years and is now adept at making felt handicraft. She is currently also taking training at EPSA on sewing and cutting. 

These are just three examples of the kind of women EPSA and Ms. Sangita Pant are looking after and giving hope for a better life ahead. And, it must be said, all the women at EPSA deserve this, if nothing else, because they are the ones who have had bitter experiences in their past, and are struggling to hold themselves up in the present. The future must be better for them, and it is organizations like EPSA that provide a ray of hope in this direction.    

Giving Succor to the Blind

Mr. Binod Prasad Kafle, 50, is the head of Nepal Ekikrit Netrahin Bikash Sangh (Nepal Integrated Blind Development Association, or NIBDA) which is located in Goldhunga of Tarkeswar Nagar Palika, Kathmandu. He says, “I was all right till the age of 20-22, but after that, I gradually began to lose my sight in both eyes. Doctors couldn’t diagnose my disease.” He agrees that it is much more difficult to adjust when one becomes blind after having had sight for so many years. “My son, who is 20 years old now, has been blind since birth, but my daughter, who is married, is all right.”

Mr. Kafle is originally from a village near Rampur, Chitwan, and he migrated to Kathmandu some 30 years ago. He established NIBDA in 2053 B.S. He reveals that, initially, the center worked for adults who were given skill development trainings. “We used to go to various districts to impart trainings,” he says. “Since the last two years, we started to focus on blind children. Right now, the Center (hostel) houses 10 children ranging from six to fifteen years in age. They are from different remote parts of the country. According to Mr. Kafle, three are from Mugu, one is from Humla, one from Rasuwa, two from Ramechaap, one from Kavre, one from Makwanpur, and one from Okharpurwa. 

Mr. Kafle says that they don’t have a big sponsor, but he is happy to disclose that: “We have received a large plot of land jointly from Prithvi Narayan Higher Secondary School (which is close to the NIBDA hostel) and the local village development committee. My dream is to have a training center, a hostel, and an old age home built there, but as I said before, we don’t have big sponsors.”

A Loving “Ama” to Many

Ujayalo Nepal in Naya Basti, Gaurighat, of Kathmandu, was established three years ago by Ms. Rama Koirala to provide a shelter to orphans and semi-orphans in need of a home. Right now, there are 21 children between the ages of 3 to 17 living in the home. Five of them are girls, while the rest are boys. Nirjala Rawal from Humla is the youngest, a cute little girl of three. “Both her parents were drowned when they fell into a river while crossing a bridge,” says Ms. Koirala. “Nirjala, too, had fallen into the river with them, but somehow she was saved.”

Ms. Koirala, who also writes poetry under the pen name ‘Rohini’, says that her primary focus is on making sure that all the children get an education. All of them study in various classes in a school nearby. Originally from Janakpur, Ms. Koirala has four sons of her own, but likes to say, “Four plus all these 21 are my children.” Indeed, she is an affectionate “Ama” to all of them. She has a lot of experience in the work she is doing, having worked for 20 years now at New Direction Nepal. And, she is putting this to very good use in running her center in an efficient manner. To my question about the source of her funding, she says, “Previously, it was running with donations from my late father, who was a doctor, and now, also, it’s due to my family’s support that I manage to keep it running.”

Ujayalo Nepal has branches in her hometown Janakpur, as well as in Mahotari. “There are 16 and 6 children, respectively, in these homes, and they are also being educated. Three of them are in college,” she says, and with some pride, states, “Some of my older children are working in different vocations today.” Ms. Koirala appears to have a deep passion in what she is doing, and declares, “I hope a time will come when there is not one orphan on the road. That is what I want to see.”

Big Problems of Little People

Kathmandu is a cosmopolitan city, a big city with an ever growing multitude of people from all over the nation making it their home. Life is hectic, traffic is unruly. Amidst all this are pockets of serenity and calm, particularly in the splendid premises of grand hotels, with their landscaped gardens endowing a refreshing ambience. There are also, amidst the hustle and bustle of the busy city, pockets of hope and optimism and hard struggle, particularly in the many shelters run by non-governmental organizations for the disadvantaged sector of society. It is natural for glamour and glitz to be always in the limelight, and for others to remain in the shadows. That is why much of what is so good and noteworthy about Kathmandu is out of most people’s view. Here are some examples of the same that could be eye-openers for those seeking to understand Nepalis better, and provide a fuller picture of Nepal.

Big Problems of Little People

Mr. Lok Nath Dhakal, 57, is the chairman of the Nepal Hocha Pudka Sangh (Dwarf Association of Nepal) that was established in 2060. Mr. Dal Bahadur Karki is its general secretary, Mr. Asal Lam, 26, is the secretary, and Ms. Sundari Misra is the treasurer. Although the association has its office in Baghbazar, many of its members are to be found at most times of the day at the Little Star Foodland eatery in Bhrikuti Manadap. It was opened a year ago, and is quite a rundown place serving basic vegetarian food. According to Mr. Dhakal, it is not doing well.

That is a problem that they are trying to come to grips with, but it’s a tough battle because these individuals, who all suffer from dwarfism, cannot do many of the regular work we normal folks take for granted. “Our problems are too many to recount,” say Mr. Dhakal. He points to where I am sitting on a chair, and says, “For instance, look at yourself; you are sitting comfortably with both feet firmly on the ground. But look at Mr. Dal Bahadur, his legs are dangling halfway way up the ground. This is only a small example of our problems, which start from the moment we wake up and begin doing everyday activities. There are practically no facilities that are convenient for us.” 

As he says all this, his face takes on a bitter air. I ask him about health problems with people like him, and he says, “After 35, people like us begin to have many health problems.” Apparently, there is no support, as such, from the government. “We get some support from the shops in Hong Kong bazaar here,” says Mr. Dhakal. He believes that there may be around 2,000 to 2,500 people suffering from dwarfism in the country. The Hocha Pudka Sangh has around 100 members. He shows some photos of a cultural program organized by the Sangh, and says, “There are many talented individual among us. If we could get more sponsors, we could do such programs on a more regular basis.”

Dhulikhel, a Most Refreshing Break

In addition to superb mountain scenery, a varied ecology, and diverse cultures, Nepal also has some really fine resorts in some charming locations. You don’t have to go far from the capital to spend a few days at such a resort; just take the 45-minute drive to Dhulikhel along the Arniko Highway. This pretty town is an ancient settlement that was once an important trading center on the commercial route between Nepal and Tibet. 

Dhulikhel has lush mountains, picturesque terraced fields, agreeable weather, and spectacular views of the Himalayan peaks. Not to mention, some wonderful resorts. From its location on a lofty hill, you’ll see serene rivers flowing down to the valley below, and because of the verdant forest to the east, the area is appealing throughout the year. The wide expanse of green fields all around adds allure to Dhulikhel, and the panoramic views of the Himalayas attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists every year. 

Dhulikhel is an ideal gateway from the hustle and bustle of city life. From its many vantage points, you can feast your eyes on the wonderful sight of over 20 regal Himalayan peaks, including Lhotse (8,516 m), Annapurna (8,091 m), Ganesh Himal (7,429 m), Langtang (7,234 m), Gaurishanker (7,134 m), and Phuribichyachu (6,637 m). Also, while in Dhulikhel, have the unforgettable experience of one of the loveliest sunrises in the world. Kali Temple, located at the top of the southeast hill, is the best place to see it from. 

And, you don’t need to miss out on any of the amenities of modern life that you are used to, because the town has some 24 world class resorts catering to all types of tourists. Many have Newari architectural elements; this is because Dhulikhel is inhabited mainly by Newars, a community known for its artistic, architectural, and craftsmanship skills. The intricately carved woodene doors and windows at some of the resorts should catch your attention. 

Dhulikhel is also strong on culture. There are quite a few temples that are testimony to the aforementioned skills of the inhabitants. Two of the landmarks here are the Harisiddhi Temple and Narayan Temple in the main square. Another popular temple, Bhagwati Mandir, is located at the northwest part of the town, from where the view of the surrounding mountain scenery is spectacular. The Gaukhureshwor Mahadev Temple is located about a 20-minute walk to the east of the town, while the Bhagwati (Kali) Temple is a half-hour uphill trek. 

Religion plays an important role at every stage in people’s lives, and functions like nwaran, annaprasasan, e:hi, ba:ra, bratabandh, bibah, janku, etc. are popular celebrations marking such stages like birth, coming of age, marriage, old age, etc.  They are socially significant and very enjoyable occasions. Dashain, Tihar, Gai Jatra, Bisket Jatra, and Nav Durga Jatra are the major festivals here.