The Chepang Trek Part 2
Why Nepal is a Trekker’s Paradise
The Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks are so well-known that they are often referred to as simply, EBS and ABC. Nevertheless, Nepal is a trekkers’ paradise not only for these two popular treks; there are many other trails that are exciting and challenging. Here’s a series of treks that are becoming more popular by the season.
On the last day of your excursion, you have an easy time ambling downhill for five to six hours to Shaktikhor (355 m), and here you’ll find small Chepang museum, as well as the Sinti waterfall and Sinti cave nearby. Now, having ended your trek in the Chepang heartland, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to take the time to visit Chitwan National Park, since it’s only one hour away. As you may know, this is the first such national park of the country, and was inscribed as a World Heritage Site in the “natural” category by UNESCO some decades ago (around the 1990s). This beautiful park attracts a lot of visitors, and is home to a diverse variety of interesting wildlife, and an equally interesting variety of flora.
It is especially famous for its inhabitants like the greater one-horned rhinoceros and the Royal Bengal tiger, which are on the endangered list of animals in the world. The high importance of this national park can be gauged by the fact that, out of the remaining population of 2,000 greater one-horned rhinos in the world, 600 are to be found here. Similarly, out of about 2,500 of the remaining Royal Bengal tigers around the world, 120 live in Chitwan National Park. During the years of the ten-year Maoist insurgency (1996-2006), it had been difficult to secure the safety of these magnificent animals, and many were killed by poachers, taking advantage of the uncertain circumstances then. However, it is indeed good news that, since then, extensive efforts by the government, and its “Zero Poaching” campaigns, has yielded good results, with the tiger population alone increasing to 120 from just about 90 in 2009, and a similar rise in rhino numbers.
There are quite a few renowned resorts around the park, all offering great facilities. Till a few decades ago, there were some very famous resorts inside the park itself, such as Tiger Tops and Gainda Wildlife Camp, to name just two. However, with a view of safeguarding the heritage all the more, all such resorts were made to close down, and most of them now have their establishments on the perimeter of the park. However, they conduct very exciting forays into the park, giving you the option of elephant rides, driving on four-wheelers, or just plain hiking through the dense jungle, including a ride down the crocodile infested river in dug-out canoes. There’s also a gharial breeding farm inside the park that should interest you, since this alligator-like snout-nosed animal too is in the endangered list. Back in Shaktikhor, you’ll be treated to an entertaining cultural program that will make your mood for the six-seven hour drive back to Kathmandu the next day.
The Chepang Trek Part 1
Why Nepal is a Trekker’s Paradise
The Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks are so well-known that they are often referred to as simply, EBS and ABC. Nevertheless, Nepal is a trekkers’ paradise not only for these two popular treks; there are many other trails that are exciting and challenging. Here’s a series of treks that are becoming more popular by the season.
In central Nepal, on the hillsides of the great Mahabharata range of mountains, live people of the Chepang clan. It is a small community relative to the general Nepali population, just over fifty-two thousand or thereabouts, which means less than one percent of the whole. For comparison’s sake, the Chettris number over four million, the Bahuns, over three million, the Magars, almost two million, the Newars, more than one million, and so on. Thus, that makes the Chepang people a small minority.
Their place of inhabitance is west of Makwanpur, south of Dhading, and east of Chitwan, which means, right in the center of central Nepal. They are an aboriginal community that has for a long time lived on tubers and wild yams, and birds and deer and bats and fish for their subsistence. And, although they also are involved in agricultural pursuits, the topography of their land does not really support extensive agriculture. As is the case with many aborigines, they were in olden days followers of animism, but now many have been influenced by other religions like Hinduism and Buddhism, the two prevailing national religions, as well as by Christianity, which has made rapid inroads into their communities.
All of these make them an intriguing ethnic group, and so a trek into their region could be very rewarding, indeed. This trek begins at a small village called Hungdi, which is about eighty kilometers from the capital, in the west-southerly direction, and situated between Mugling and Krishna Bhir in Dhading district. There are two ways of reaching this village. The more sedate way is by traveling on a bus from Kathmandu, which should take around only four to five hours. The other way is much more adventurous. You drive down to Charaudi, forty-five minutes away, and getting down to the bank of the Trishuli River, hop on a raft and ride it through the rapids, especially in the stretch following a place called Manjitar that has a high rating as far as rapids are concerned, and there’s even one stretch of rapid that is nicknamed “Surprise”! You don’t need to hurry, and so can settle down for the night at Kuringhat Camp, and come morning, you again start off on your wet journey. On the way you will encounter some interesting stretches like the Mugling and Simaltal rapids. At Simaltal, you park your raft on the bank, get atop a four-wheel jeep, and drive to Hungdi, which is now an hour away. Next, you begin your real trek, hiking to Hattibang village (1,415 m) for some five hours or so. Here, you spend the night in a homestay or a guest house. Living in the former is of course more rewarding, since you’ll have more of an experience of the Chepang culture and lifestyle. Since it is all hilly country, the landscape is splendid. Having shared meals with one Chepang family or the other, the next day you trek for about six hours to the village of Jyandala (1,610 m), and along the way, you will be passing small villages of the Chepangs, such as Changa, Jautesh, and Dinglang. Jyandal is where you’ll be spending another night in Chepang territory, and you again have the opportunity of imbibing more of the local culture. You start off early next morning and walk for five to six hours to arrive at a place called Upperdan Gadhi (1, 278 m). “Gadhi” means a fort, so naturally a fort must have stood there once, and looking around, you’ll see that there are indeed remnants of one. It is worth keeping in mind that once upon a time, the Kathmandu valley was protected from outside invasion by many such forts in and around the valley, Makwanpur being a major site. You walk on, and it’s all uphill now, and you’ll reach Siraichuli, which at 1.945 m is the highest point of the Chepang trek. As a matter of interest, “chuli” means the peak. From this high point, the views of the Himalayan peaks like Dhaulagiri, Annapurna range, Langtang, Rolwaling, Manaslu, Gorkha Himal, Gaurishankar, and Peak 29 are pretty awesome. In addition, you get a good view of the Chitwan National Park far below, as well. For those who love to watch birds, it is a paradise, with over 255 species flying around the area.
Tamang Heritage Trail Trek
Why Nepal is a Trekker’s Paradise
The Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks are so well-known around the world that they are often referred to as simply, EBS and ABC. However, Nepal is called a trekkers’ paradise not only for these two famous treks; there are numerous other trails that are as exciting. Here’s a series of lesser-known trails that are becoming more popular by the season.
There is an interesting village called Gatlang in Rasuwa district, to the north of Kathmandu, which is inhabited by people of the Tamang community, and which suffered great devastation during the 2015 quake. To reach there, you have to first travel by bus for an entire day, a distance of about 130 km, from the capital to Syabrubesi. This is the starting point of your trek to Gatlang. The narrow trail goes quite steeply uphill, reaching 2,300 meters in height, and this is when you get good views of Langtang Himal, Ganesh Himal, and the Gosaikunda range, as also the Kerung range in far off Tibet. The landscape is enchanting. From Gatlang, you get to have panoramic views of Langtang Lirung (7,256 m) and Langtang II (6,561 m). The sunsets over distant mountain peaks are truly spellbinding. If simplicity is what you are looking for, then Gatlang is just the place for you. A warm welcome awaits every visitor, the Tamang people are as hospitable as they are simple, and you can also enjoy intermingling with them all the more by staying at a homestay. Other options include a community lodge also assured of comfortable lodgings at one facility or the other, be it a homestay, a community lodge and a private boarding house. The people here, despite the substantial number of tourists going their way, have managed to hold on to their traditional way of life, which includes a unique culture and distinctive identity. All the houses in this village are built of stacked stones and the roofs are of wood. The dresses worn by the local are of Tibetan style, and one of the most distinctive features of the women’s accoutrement are the large round gold plated earrings that adorn their ears. Similarly, a unique part of their culture is the custom of making mits and mitnis (best friends for life) by boys and girls, respectively, at a communal ceremony. Religion plays a big part of life here, the Tamangs being predominantly followers of Tibetan Buddhism. The Tamangs also have their own dances, some of which are popular all over the country. Shamans are also a part of life for them, and watching them exorcise evil spirits is pretty spellbinding, what with the jingling of many bells worn on a belt over the shoulders, the hypnotic beat of one-sided hand held drums, rhythmic chants, and so on. All this points towards a rich and ancient heritage, which is what you experience on a trek on the Tamang Heritage Trail. The trail goes through numerous villages like Langtang village, Thang Shyap, Ghore Tabela (about 3,000 m), and Kyangjin (3,900 m), besides Gatlang. As you hike uphill from Ghore Tabela to Langtang, the Langtang Himals to the north offer themselves as a splendid sight, and when on the way to Kyangjin, you’ll be crossing the outer margins of the Ledrup Lirung glacier. Some interesting and lesser known Himalayan peaks to be viewed from Kyangjin are Kyangjin Ri (4,770 m), Brana Chumso (4,350 m), and Menchmasu (4,650 m). In case you have enough stamina, and the interest, you can also hike up to Tsergo Ri (4,984 m), a four-five hour trek. Langtang, naturally the biggest village in the valley, has a significant role as a regional trading center. You’ll not fail to notice a rather large complex of mani-stones and mani-walls near the village, and the elaborately carved doors and numerous prayer flags on the houses. The sight of herds of grazing yaks will certainly grab your attention, as well. The other big village, Kyangjin, has a large number of lodges, twenty in number and counting. But, you’ll not find another lodge on the trail after Kyangjin.
Panch Pokhari Trek - Part II
Why Nepal is a Trekkers’ Paradise
The Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks may be the most famous treks of Nepal, but there are also many other trails that are exciting and challenging. Here’s a series of treks that are becoming more popular by the season.
The next day, it’s time to head back. The hike is mostly downhill, so easy on the legs, and you are back in Nasim Pati for a night halt. Next on the route is Dukang (2,100 m) another overnight. Come dawn, and you hike to Dhap (1,200 m), and then Melamchi Bazaar (800 m), from where you drive back to the capital. As you may have noticed this trek is quite a leisurely one, the uphills notwithstanding, but there’s one other route to reach Panch Pokhari. This is ideal for those with scarce time on their hands, taking about four to five days only. No doubt, spending more time in such pristine surroundings, and experiencing different cultures, is an opportunity of a lifetime, so most trekkers prefer the ten-day trek. Anyway, if you don’t have a lot of time, take a bus drive up to Melamchi Bazaar, going via Sankhu, an ancient Newar town about seventeen kilometers from the capital, and which has a conch-shaped look, so the name (conch is sankhu in Nepali). The road is not at its best at most times, so the ride could be less than comfortable. Anyway, you’ll reach Melamchi in about three hours. Melamchi is very much in the spotlight since quite some time now, due to the fact that there’s an ongoing water supply project designed to bring the plentiful water of the Melamchi River to the capital, which faces acute water shortage. If you are going at a time when there’s a festival on in the area, the bus may even take you to Mane Kharka, and perhaps as far as Bhotang. Lunch (daal-bhaat) halt is at a place called Tipni, which is some one-and-a-half-hour from Melamchi. You are likely to see plenty of yellow mustard fields around, with high mountains surrounding them. From Mane Kharka, Bhotang is at a distance of about one hour, and this is where you will spend the night in a guest house. Have your fill of the piping hot food there, because you’ll be hiking from the next morning, when your first destination is Tangu, and which you’ll reach after climbing a long and steep flight of stone steps and then hiking steadily uphill. On the way, you’ll also come across a lovely stream, as well as a cascading waterfall, and it’s all a very pleasing trek, no doubt, even if it’s uphill and through dense vegetation. Naturally, it’s exhausting, as well, so you take good rest at Tangu. The next day’s hike is even more challenging, and very taxing on your limbs and on your back, since you’ll be walking ever upwards. Five hours of this will see you in Nasim Pati, where you’ll set up camp, of course. And then, the following morning you walk along mountain ridges before finally arriving at the fabled Panch Pokhari. The return trip, after the mandatory dip(s) in one of the pokharis, and an eyeful of magnificent landscape from the nearby hilltop, sees you back in Nasim Pati, where you spend the night again. Sleep well and take good rest, because the next day involves a full day of hiking to reach Bhotang, which is your night halt for the day. Early next morning, you continue your trek for about four more hours to finally reach Melamchi, and then it’s off to Kathmandu on a bus.
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Panch Pokhari Trek - Part I
Why Nepal is a Trekkers’ Paradise
The Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks may be the most famous treks of Nepal, but there are also many other trails that are exciting and challenging. Here’s a series of treks that are becoming more popular by the season.
Panch Pokhari (4,100 m) is located to the capital’s northeast at the base of the Jugal Himal, a chain of peaks that includes Dorjee Lhakpa (6,966m), Phurbi Chhyachu (6,637m), and Madiya (6,257m) in Nepal, as well as Shishapangma (8,027 m) in south-central Tibet. This trekking route is a relatively new one, and the ideal time to do this trek is between October and May. Panch Pokhari means “Five Ponds”, and like most such sites, is important from both the cultural and religious aspects. Here, too, many devotees come in August during the Janai Purnima festival, when they change their janai (sacred thread worn by Brahmins around their bodies). Panch Pokhari, because of its altitude, also carried ecological significance. You’ll be mostly among Tamangs and Sherpas during this ten-day trek, which begins at Chautara (1,200 m). You drive there from Kathmandu, and around five hours later you’ll be there, the district headquarters of Sindhupalchok district, an area that was devastated by the 7.8 M earthquake in April 2015, followed by a 6.7 M aftershock that affected this district the most. As a result, more than 3,000 people lost their lives here, and in Chautara itself, more than ninety percent of the houses were destroyed. It is, of course, on its way to recovery now, and you’ll be halting for the night here. The following day, you start hiking to Phusre (2,045 m), reaching there in about six hours. It’s an uphill trek, and you’ll be glad to stop for the night. The next day’s hike continues gradually uphill to reach Kami Kharka (2,845 m) in six hours or so. On the way, the great views of Gaurishankar, Dorje Lakpa, and Jugal Himal range will uplift your spirit. The air is cool, and the scenery is splendid, this area being a grazing ground for livestock. You halt here in a trekking camp, and next morning, you hike for another six hours or so to arrive at Pauwa Bas (3,000 m). The fourth day sees you trekking to Hile Bhanjyang (3,400m), and similarly, the fifth day, you hike to Nasim Pati (3,700 m), passing Tangu village on the way. This is the final point before reaching your ultimate destination, that is, Panch Pokhari. Nasim Pati provides spectacular views, and you can stay the night in a rest house here. . Before reaching Panch Pokhari, however, you have to trek along some pretty difficult ridges. which will take around two hours, or thereabouts. Then, you’ll see a sign welcoming you to Panch Pokhari, and sometime later, you are there. The clear blue ponds are surrounded by green hills, and the scene is a very serene one. There are a number of rest houses, along with a temple. You should take a dip in the water, as it’s sure to refresh and rejuvenate you. Walking up to a hill top, you’ll be treated to a spectacular view of the Kanchenjunga, Rolwaling, Makalu, and of course, the Jugal Himal, ranges. Take a well-deserved rest here and have a peaceful night of deep sleep.
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The Kalinchowk Trek Part 2
Why Nepal is a Trekker’s Paradise
The Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks are so well-known that they are often referred to as simply, EBS and ABC. Nevertheless, Nepal is a trekkers’ paradise not only for these two popular treks; there are many other trails that are exciting and challenging,. Here’s a series of trails that are becoming more familiar by the season.
You, of course, carry on along the main trail, and two hours or so later, you’ll arrive at Thangsa, and then, another half hour takes you to Gairidanda (2,540 m), a ridge point that gives excellent views (danda means ridge). If the weather is clear, the northeastern Himalayan range offers a splendid sight for hungry eyes. However, one cannot expect everything to go as one wants, and the clouds up at these heights can be quite disturbing, so you have to be ready for anything, including disappointment at not seeing the magnificent Himalayan peaks. However, you’ll be somewhat compensated by the sight of Chayuris (cow and yak crossbreeds) grazing on the lusciously green hillsides, which is also a pretty picture. You may as well take a lengthy break at Gairidanda, because after that, for the next four-five hours, you’ll not come across any settlements. So, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to get adequately nourished with tough grilled yak meat and thick tea made of chyauri milk. Now, up ahead, the trek begins to be a back breaking one, with the trail climbing steeply uphill through thick forests of a variety of high altitude trees, as well as Rhododendron, the national flower. This part of the trek consists of a four-hour climb that will surely test your stamina, not to mention your back and legs. After reaching the top, where there is a stone deity image (as is usually is on most ridge tops), you are advised to make a longish halt, which will help to acclimatize you to the higher altitude. The trail then descends to a small valley, from where some distance ahead is Kuri Kharka (3,200 m), where you spend the night in one of the shack-like ‘guest houses’ around.
A good night’s sleep, hopefully, and a sunny morning, again hopefully, paints a more enthusiastic and inspiring picture of magnificent mountains all around. Nice sight, but not much fun to climb! The trail now carries straight up again, this time across a mountain face, which naturally results in pretty ragged breathing all around, and an extremely slow pace. But, when you reach the top, you get a fantastic view of Gaurishanker, the goddess mountain, which stands apart from the other peaks on the horizon, with Melungtse Himal (7,023 m) beside her. From here, it’s only 200 meters more to the Kalinchowk Temple, but is a slow climb, since the track is narrow, and then there’s that deep gully on one side, and the high mountain on the other. So, it is a scary sight, yes—looks quite dangerous, doesn’t it? So, it is no surprise that it can take you more than two hours to reach the temple. Before you arrive there, however, there’s one more bridge to cross. Literally! An iron stairway across a chasm between the two opposite crests is what awaits you, and you’ll have to somehow pick up the courage to crawl across it. Reminds you of Indiana Jones, does it? Anyway, having done so, you then climb to the very top, which is barely 200 or so square feet in area, and here is where stands Kalinchowk Temple, dedicated to Kalinchowk, another form of Goddess Bhagwati, that powerful Mother Goddess of the Hindu pantheon. She is symbolized by a natural spring arising in a small pit, and all around the site, you’ll find many tridents, that three-forked weapon of the goddess. It should all inspire you. Even if it doesn’t, the awesome panoramic views from here definitely should!
The Kalinchowk Trek Part 1
Why Nepal is a Trekker’s Paradise
The Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks are so well-known that they are often referred to as simply, EBC and ABC. Nevertheless, Nepal is a trekkers’ paradise not only for these two popular treks; there are many other trails that are exciting and challenging. Here’s a series of trails that are becoming more familiar by the season.
It is the Arniko Highway that most trekkers drive on to get to their respective take-off points for quite a few treks in regions north of the capital. It’s a good road, so that’s a good thing, because you reach your destination faster, saving you precious time. And so, that’s how you start your Kalinchowk trek, it’s a pleasant beginning. However, you might be less pleased to know that you’ll be trekking in an isolated area and hiking through some pretty dense forests on the way, one of which, especially, has seen its fair share of robberies. So, be warned!
Anyway, you first drive to Charikot, which should take around five hours. This picturesque town is 133 km northeast of Kathmandu, atop a hill at 1,733 meters. The trek to Kalinchowk from here mean you will be climbing to a height of 3,782 meters, and so it is bound to challenge your mettle, both physical and mental. At the same time , it need not be said that the scenery you encounter will be really lovely, the route passing across terraced fields of millet and mustard, forests of sweet smelling pine trees, hemlock, and what not, and thick droves of gracefully swaying bamboo. Soon after you start hiking, you’ll get splendid views of the Tamakosi River way down below, to the south, while to the north are of course, the mighty Himalayan peaks, Gaurishanker (7,134 m) being, without a shred of doubt, the most prominent and impressive.
As you near Chothang village, which is also called “Hotel Danda”, you will observe chortens with Nepali inscriptions and stone memorials with Tibetan inscriptions all along the trail. Such memorials to the dead is a common tradition for the largely Sherpa, Magar, Lama, and Tamang villagers who live around here. Carry on hiking, and now you’ll notice that there’s a clear change in the geography, with the rhododendron and pine forests becoming denser as you climb, and at some point, you’ll find the tall trees almost completely blocking out the light. This is where many robberies apparently have occurred, so you’ll be walking a bit faster through this part of the woods, right?
All going well, and no Robin Hoods having made their presence felt, you emerge onto a lovely setting that’s pretty enchanting. It has as its centerpiece, a heart-shaped, moss-covered pool of water, that’s known as Simpani. You can rest easier now, and take your time enjoying the beautiful scenery, since your next stop will be at a place only a half hour later; it’s called Deurali (2,350 m), and it has some very welcome teashops. And, hot tea is what’s most welcome, what with the chilly weather up here. A fork up ahead has tracks going down to some villages. Chhyamamwati and Makaibari have Tamang, Magar, and Sherpa inhabitants, while Shuspa village has an ethnic group called Thami.
The Kanchenjunga Trail Part 2
Why Nepal is a Trekker’s Paradise
The Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks are so well-known around the world that they are often referred to as simply, EBS and ABC. However, Nepal is called a trekkers’ paradise not only for these two famous treks; there are numerous other trails that are as exciting. Here’s a series of lesser-known trails that are becoming more popular by the season.
The trail becomes narrower thereon and takes you to to Deurali pass. Located at 3,000 m, it’s a high point, and from here you go down to the Tamur River. You stop for the night at a place called at Gurja (2,000 m), before reaching the river. Now, it’s all easy-going, the trail descending gradually for some hours before you arrive at Dobhan (640 m). You’ll be crossing a suspension bridge over the Matwa Khola on the way, which is also quite an experience!
Having crossed the river, you continue hiking on a dirt track going slightly uphill along the banks, and reach Handrung about 35 minutes later. But now, you’ll find that the narrow is pretty slippery, and you got be careful. You’ll to be in Mitlung (800 m) some two hours later, and the next morning’s hike of about one hour will take you to Sinwa (980 m), and two-and-a-half hour later, you’ll be welcomed with a signboard reading: “Welcome to Kanchenjunga Conservation Area”. You’ll stop to have lunch at Chirwa (1,190 m), and then hike on to Tapethok (1 h, 1,320 m). After an hour more of easy hiking on a flat trail, you begin to ascend for some time before reaching Lelep (1,687 m). The next day, your fifth on the trail, starts with a 15-minute descent to a suspension bridge, followed by some more, and about two hours later, you’ll reach Jaubari, where a lovely waterfall will enchant you. Another hour or so later, the trail ascends steeply for an hour along a gorge to Amijlosa (2,498 m), and it’s pretty trying on the legs. However, you’ll be hiking sometimes up and sometimes down for the next three hours before coming to Gyabla (2,730 m). The next day, you walk downhill to Ghunsa Khola to reach Phole (3,080 m), and then on, Ghunsa (3,410 m), where you stop for a rest day to acclimatize yourself. On the eighth day, you hike for about three to four hours to reach Khambachen (4,145 m). As you continue going up, you’ll get your first sighting of Kumbhakarna (7,711 m), and reach Kambachen (4,145 m). Then on, the following morning, you trek to Lhonak (4,792 m), Pang Pema (5,140 m), and then return back to Khambachen again. On the way, you’ll see peaks like Khambachen (7,903 m), Kirant Chuli (7,365 m), Gimmigela Chuli (7,350), Pathibahara Khas (7,140 m), Nepal Peak (7,168 m) and Wedge Peak (6,802 m) and Taple Shikhar (6,447 m).
On the tenth day, the trek is for seven hours from Khambachen to Ghunsa and then to Selele (4,130 m), where you’ll get a view of Sele Pass (4,290 m). The next day, you trek to Tseram (3.138 m), walking through Sinelapche La pass (4,663 m) and Mirgin La pass (4,460 m), from where the views of Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), Talung (7,349 m), Kumbakarna (7,710 m), Rathong (6,682 m), Pholesobi Thongje (6,645 m), and Nyukla Lchun (6,012 m) are great. Then, it’s all downhill for some time, before going up again to Tseram, with Chachung Lake on the way.
The twelfth day takes you to Tortong (2,980 m) along the Yalung Glacier to Ramche (4.620 m) and Oktang (4,740 m), before returning to Tseram, and then to Tortong. The following morning begins with a descent through a forest, before ascending to Lasiya Bhanjyang (3,415 m), and then downhill to Yamphudin (1,690 m) where you spend the night. Come morning, and you’ll walk across a suspension bridge to reach Ghatichhinne Bhanjyang (2,157 m) and then Ekchana Bhanjyang (2,070 m), and Khebang (1,910 m). You carry on descending to Dobhan before climbing again to Khanidingbe and Dandagaon. The last day, you hike for half-an-hour downhill to Medibung , reaching civilization once again after two weeks of romping through the wilderness, and from where a bus takes you to Ilam.
The Kanchenjunga Trail Part 1
Why Nepal is a Trekker’s Paradise
The famous Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks are so well-known around the world, particularly among those interested in the exciting field of trekking on challenging trails, that they are often referred to as simply, EBS and ABC (Like, “Have you done the ABC?”). However, Nepal is called a trekkers’ paradise not only for these two popular treks that attract thousands every year; there are numerous other trails that are as exciting. And, yes, challenging, as well. Here’s a series of lesser known trails of Nepal that are becoming more familiar by the season.
There’s a quite a bit of adventure around the country, besides just Kathmandu, Pokhara, and Chitwan, the three best known destinations for visitors to Nepal. East Nepal is a region rich in culture, and it is where you’ll find Kanchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world at 8.586 meters. So, why not embark on a Kanchenjunga trek this time around?
The trek is mostly inside the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area (KCA) that was established in1997, and is in Tapeljung, an area that sprawls out over some 2,035 square kilometers. Although it’s a lot of space, the region has a pretty sparse population of Limbus, Sherpas, Rais being the major ethnicities. However, they have distinctive cultures and lifestyles, which could be interesting. While Kanchenjunga is certainly the jewel in the crown here, there are also ten other peaks that are over 7,000 meters. Besides these grand mountains, the wildlife can also pique your interest, consisting of elusive animals like the ferocious grey wolf, the magnificent snow leopard, the shy red panda, huge Himalayan black bear, beautiful blue sheep, and quite a number of musk deer, besides a wide variety of birds. Similarly the flora, too, is diverse, including twenty species of rhododendrons, the national flower.
Here’s how you begin this exciting trek. A plane takes you to Biratnagar, the second biggest city of Nepal (about 45 minutes only, plenty of flights through the day), and then a vehicle drives you to Dharan (some one-hour only, on excellent road), which was one of the two major cities for recruitment of Gurkhas for the British Army )Pokhara being the other). The following morning, the drive is on to a little place called Hile (50 km, 1,850 m), where even in summer you’ll need a pullover, and onwards to Basantpur (40 km, 2,200 m), where you’ll be getting ready for the start of an epic adventure (gearing up, in popular parlance).
A 50-minute hike slightly uphill takes you to Deurali (2,475 m), and after a further 60-minute hike from there, you’ll stop for a well-deserved lunch at Ghurbise (2,660 m). Lunch over, a little rest, and then it’s off to Chauki (1 h, 2,680 m), which is a good viewpoint for peaks like Makalu, Chomolonzo, and Chhamlang, and where you’ll be spending your first night on the trail (lodge accomodations). The next day, you trek to Mangalbare (35 min, 2,635 m), and from their you’ll be encountering a rougher trail, but it’s an important one. Known as the ‘rhododendron trail’, it goes through the Tinjure-Milke-Jaljale area for about two hours, after which time you’ll be halting for lunch at Gupha Pokhari (2,890 m).
The Humla Trek
Why Nepal is a Trekker’s Paradise
The Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks are so well-known around the world that they are often referred to as simply, EBS and ABC. However, Nepal is called a trekkers’ paradise not only for these two famous treks; there are numerous other trails that are as exciting. Here’s a series of lesser-known trails that are becoming more popular by the season.
This trek introduces you to one of the remotest regions of the country, and you’ll be hiking on some salt trade routes that are pretty ancient in origin, and on which you’ll see mules, many of them in caravans, heavy loads on their sturdy backs, yet managing to scamper down sure-footedly on steeply descending rocky trails and scrambling uphill, equally sure of foot. These are sights rarely seen in today’s world, and thus makes the Humla trek a novel one.
Humla is the country’s northernmost district. It is also the gateway to Mount Kailash, a very sacred site, the abode of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. Mount Saipal, at 7,031 meters, is the highest mountain in Humla. You’ll also find Limi Valley here, a virgin valley, as it were, with almost no signs of modernization around. Your trek starts at Simikot (2,190 m) which you reach by flight from Nepalgunj in about 50 minutes. Nepalgunj, on its part, is a one-hour flight from Kathmandu.
Once in Simikot, you hike on a salt trading trail to arrive at a town on the Nepal-China border known as Hilsa (3,720 m). You’ll be making many steep ascents and equally steep descents, which makes it a tough trek. The landscape is wild and rugged, and the awesome scenery is unbelievably beautiful—pine tree forests, terraced paddy fields, wonderful waterfalls, deep gorges, shimmering lakes, and many rock strewn trails all around. As you plod on, you’ll be in sight of the Karnali River most of the time, and on the horizon will be a number of snow-capped peaks. Add to all this, the sight of yaks grazing on the meadows and the sheep in caravans with 10-12 kg bags of salt on their backs, and yes, you will be transported back in time, no doubt about that!
On leaving Simikot, you’ll have to hike uphill most of the time on a salt route that goes along the valley wall. Waterfalls cascading down make for fantastic scenery. You’ll also encounter nomads on the trail, as well as some small villages around the hilltops above the gorge. Villages like Tumkot, Yalbang, Majhgaon, Kermi, etc. The descents are as trying as the ascents, and punish your legs equally. The foot of the Chongsa basin makes for a good campsite for the day, but the weather can be quite unpredictable here, so be prepared for rain.
Tamang Heritage Trail Trek
Why Nepal is a Trekker’s Paradise
The Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks are so well-known around the world that they are often referred to as simply, EBS and ABC. However, Nepal is called a trekkers’ paradise not only for these two famous treks; there are numerous other trails that are as exciting. Here’s a series of lesser-known trails that are becoming more popular by the season.
There is an interesting village called Gatlang in Rasuwa district,to the north of Kathmandu, which is inhabited by people of the Tamang community, and which suffered great devastation during the 2015 quake. To reach there, you have to first travel by bus for an entire day, a distance of about 130 km, from the capital to Syabrubesi. This is the starting point of your trek to Gatlang. The narrow trail goes quite steeply uphill, reaching 2,300 meters in height, and this is when you get good views of Langtang Himal, Ganesh Himal, and the Gosaikunda range, as also the Kerung range in far off Tibet. The landscape is enchanting. From Gatlang, you get to have panoramic views of Langtang Lirung (7,256 m) and Langtang II (6,561 m). The sunsets over distant mountain peaks are truly spellbinding. If simplicity is what you are looking for, then Gatlang is just the place for you. A warm welcome awaits every visitor, the Tamang people are as hospitable as they are simple, and you can also enjoy intermingling with them all the more by staying at a homestay. Other options include a community lodge also assured of comfortable lodgings at one facility or the other, be it a homestay, a community lodge and a private boarding house. The people here, despite the substantial number of tourists going their way, have managed to hold on to their traditional way of life, which includes a unique culture and distinctive identity. All the houses in this village are built of stacked stones and the roofs are of wood. The dresses worn by the local are of Tibetan style, and one of the most distinctive features of the women’s accoutrement are the large round gold plated earrings that adorn their ears. Similarly, a unique part of their culture is the custom of making mits and mitnis (best friends for life) by boys and girls, respectively, at a communal ceremony. Religion plays a big part of life here, the Tamangs being predominantly followers of Tibetan Buddhism. The Tamangs also have their own dances, some of which are popular all over the country. Shamans are also a part of life for them, and watching them exorcise evil spirits is pretty spellbinding, what with the jingling of many bells worn on a belt over the shoulders, the hypnotic beat of one-sided hand held drums, rhythmic chants, and so on. All this points towards a rich and ancient heritage, which is what you experience on a trek on the Tamang Heritage Trail. The trail goes through numerous villages like Langtang village, Thang Shyap, Ghore Tabela (about 3,000 m), and Kyangjin (3,900 m), besides Gatlang. As you hike uphill from Ghore Tabela to Langtang, the Langtang Himals to the north offer themselves as a splendid sight, and when on the way to Kyangjin, you’ll be crossing the outer margins of the Ledrup Lirung glacier. Some interesting and lesser known Himalayan peaks to be viewed from Kyangjin are Kyangjin Ri (4,770 m), Brana Chumso (4,350 m), and Menchmasu (4,650 m). In case you have enough stamina, and the interest, you can also hike up to Tsergo Ri (4,984 m), a four-five hour trek. Langtang, naturally the biggest village in the valley, has a significant role as a regional trading center. You’ll not fail to notice a rather large complex of mani-stones and mani-walls near the village, and the elaborately carved doors and numerous prayer flags on the houses. The sight of herds of grazing yaks will certainly grab your attention, as well. The other big village, Kyangjin, has a large number of lodges, twenty in number and counting. But, you’ll not find another lodge on the trail after Kyangjin
Barahabise to Charikot Trek
Why Nepal is a Trekker’s Paradise
The Everest Base Camp and Annapurna Base Camp treks are so well-known around the world that they are often referred to as simply, EBS and ABC. However, Nepal is called a trekkers’ paradise not only for these two famous treks; there are numerous other trails that are as exciting. Here’s a series of lesser-known trails that are becoming more popular by the season.
A relatively new trekking route, this trek begins west of the Rolwaling and Khumbu trekking regions, to the east of the capital, Barahabise being the take-off point. This five-six days’ trek ends at Charikot of Dolakha district, which is nestled on Gauri Shanker Himal’s southern slope. Gauri Shanker (7, 134 m) is a revered peak, as is obvious from its name itself. If you have a week of free time at hand, you should go on this trek, one that is easy to reach. You drive on the Arniko Highway, heading northeast from Kathmandu, to reach Barahabise in just about two-and-a-half hours.
Then, you start trekking on the trail along the Sunkosi River watershed, going east up to the Tamakosi river valley. The first day is easy, and you’ll reach a village called Karthali soon enough, then, it becomes more of a regular hiking trail, one that’s dusty and rough. And, you won’t find any shade for quite a few miles, so, hat on, folks! Karthali village, lodged between two ridges, can provide comfortable dormitory-type accommodations in a lodge operated by an organization called Eco-Himal. From here, you can see the Sunhkosi River far below, its flow tranquil and serene. All around are huge mountain ranges. The following day, you hike to Dolangsa, a Sherpa village, at a height of some 2,500 meters, where houses are built all over the hillsides. Here, there’s a lodge propped up near the monastery located at quite a height. The trail carries on to Bigu, and getting there is pretty challenging. The trail is pretty narrow, and it’s cut into the rock face, and what’s more, it’s steeply uphill to the Tingsing La pass (3,300 m). However, your strenuous efforts will be rewarded with a spectacular view of Gauri Shanker peak. You’ll also see Chhoba Bhamare to the west and Pigpherago and Numbur Himal to the west if there are no clouds. The descent is easy enough on a winding trail down the hillside. On the way, you’ll see some chalets decorated with carved windows. Soon, however, you got to undertake a sharp climb up the hillside on a dusty path before arriving at Bigu.
Sleep well here, you’ve deserved it, and there’s comfy arrangements at the Bigu Lodge, which is near the Bigu Gompa, a 75-year-old Kargyapa-sect nunnery that has many marvelous images of Avalokiteshwara, a multi-armed, multi-headed deity, along with rows of elaborately embossed chortens. The next day, you hike to Loting, passing through Laduk, on a trail leading to the river. A night-halt is called for at Loting, and the following morning you trek on to Sinagti on a trail that descends steadily. You get to walk across a swaying suspension bridge before you come to Solung Khola. Then on, the trail goes along the left bank of the river, and finally reaches Singati, from where you can get a bus ride to Charikot, a rough one, it must be said! The final part of your adventure sees you on a bus back to the capital.